Smoking Hills near Cape Bathurst in Canada’s Northwest Territories is a remote natural phenomenon where underground coal seams spontaneously combust, creating colorful cliffs and sulfurous smoke. Accessible primarily by expedition cruise ships, this uninhabited Arctic location offers dramatic landscapes, unique geology, and opportunities to witness rare Arctic wildlife in their natural habitat.

Quick Port Facts

FactDetail
LocationCape Bathurst Peninsula, Franklin Bay, Beaufort Sea, Northwest Territories
Port TypeNo formal port; offshore anchoring with tender or helicopter access only
Cruise SeasonJune through September (Arctic summer)
PopulationUninhabited (nearest community: Paulatuk, 105 km east)
CurrencyCanadian Dollar (CAD)
LanguageEnglish, Inuvialuktun
Emergency Services9-1-1 (territorial emergency line)
Official InformationGovernment of Northwest Territories

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Smoking Hills Cape Bathurst Map

Map shows the offshore viewing area and natural features accessible by tender or helicopter from cruise ships anchored in Franklin Bay.

About This Remote Anchorage in Canada

Can You Walk to Town from the Port

There is no port at Smoking Hills and there’s no town to walk to. This is one of the most remote coastal areas in Arctic Canada, completely uninhabited and accessible only by sea or air.

  • Terrain: If you do get ashore (weather permitting), expect extremely rugged Arctic tundra with no paths, no infrastructure, and hazardous sulfurous gases near the cliff faces. This isn’t wheelchair accessible and isn’t suitable for anyone with mobility challenges.
  • Weather: Even in summer, Arctic conditions can be brutal. Expect wind chill, sudden weather changes, and the potential for fog or rough seas that cancel shore access entirely.
  • Safety: The sulfur dioxide and other gases emitted by the burning cliffs create genuine health hazards. You must stay in designated safe viewing areas with expedition guides. Wildlife including polar bears inhabit the region, making independent exploration dangerous and prohibited.

How to Get Around from Smoking Hills Cape Bathurst & Shore Transportation

Transportation at Smoking Hills is unlike any conventional cruise port because there’s nothing conventional about this location. Your movement options are entirely determined by what your expedition cruise company provides and what weather conditions allow on the day.

Tender Boats (Zodiacs)

  • Most expedition ships use rigid inflatable Zodiac boats to transfer passengers from the anchored ship to viewing points along the shore
  • These operations only run when sea conditions permit, and the captain makes the final call based on wind, waves, and ice conditions
  • You’ll need to be physically capable of boarding a Zodiac from a ship platform and potentially making a wet landing on shore
  • Expedition staff scout landing sites in advance and guide all shore time, typically limiting visits to 1-2 hours maximum
  • Life jackets are mandatory and waterproof trousers are strongly recommended

Helicopter Scenic Flights

  • Some expedition itineraries include helicopter overflights of Smoking Hills, which often provide better viewing than shore landings because you can safely approach the actively burning cliff sections
  • These flights typically last 15-30 minutes and accommodate small groups (usually 4-6 passengers per helicopter)
  • Weather cancellations are common due to fog, wind, or low visibility
  • Helicopter excursions usually cost extra beyond your cruise fare, sometimes several hundred dollars per person
  • Weight restrictions apply and you’ll need to leave bags and heavy camera equipment behind

Ship-Based Viewing

  • When conditions prevent tenders or helicopters, the ship will position itself as close to the cliffs as safely possible for viewing from deck
  • Bring binoculars and telephoto lenses because even “close” positioning means you’re still a considerable distance offshore
  • The naturalist guides will provide commentary via the ship’s PA system and often hold viewing sessions on deck

What to See

If your expedition does manage a shore landing, here’s what you might experience within the tightly controlled landing zone.

  • The Burning Cliffs: The main attraction is the constantly smouldering cliff face where lignite coal and sulfur-rich shale spontaneously combust, creating colorful mineral deposits and rising gases. You won’t walk right up to them due to toxic gases, but viewing from a safe distance (typically 50-100 meters) still provides spectacular photo opportunities. Expect 30-45 minutes of supervised viewing.
  • Acidic Ponds: Near the cliffs, acidic runoff has created strangely colored pools and streams in shades of orange, yellow, and green due to dissolved minerals. These are toxic and you absolutely cannot touch or wade in them, but they’re visually striking. Located within a few hundred meters of typical landing sites.
  • Arctic Tundra Landscape: The immediate area consists of low-lying tundra vegetation, permafrost formations, and scattered rocks. In summer you might see Arctic wildflowers and low shrubs. The terrain is uneven, marshy in places, and requires sturdy waterproof boots.
  • Seabird Colonies: The cliffs host nesting seabirds including gulls, guillemots, and occasionally Arctic terns. Bring binoculars for better viewing without disturbing nesting sites.
  • Arctic Fox Den Sites: With sharp eyes and luck, you might spot Arctic fox tracks or even glimpse the foxes themselves near the shoreline, particularly in early summer when they’re feeding kits.

Attractions in Smoking Hills Cape Bathurst

Here’s what makes this remote location worth the expedition cruise fare.

The Spontaneously Combusting Cliffs

  • What it is: The cliffs along the eastern coast of Cape Bathurst contain hydrocarbon-rich lignite coal and bituminous shale that have been burning continuously for centuries through spontaneous combustion. The exposed rock faces glow in shades of orange, red, yellow, and brown from the mineral deposits left by sulfurous gases.
  • Why it matters: This is one of the few places on Earth where you can witness natural geological combustion in action. The phenomenon was first documented by European explorers in the 1800s and has been burning ever since. It’s a rare glimpse of geological processes that usually occur deep underground.
  • Time needed: If you get a shore landing, expect 45 minutes to 1 hour of supervised viewing from safe vantage points. Helicopter overflights last 15-30 minutes.
  • Practical tips: The sulfur dioxide emissions create a distinctive rotten-egg smell that can be overwhelming. Some people with respiratory conditions may need to stay aboard ship. Photography is best with a telephoto lens (200mm or longer) since you can’t approach closely. The cliffs photograph particularly well in the low-angle Arctic summer light during evening hours.

Franklin Bay Coastal Wilderness

  • What it is: The broader Cape Bathurst area encompasses pristine Arctic coastal habitat where the tundra meets the Beaufort Sea. The landscape includes ice-pushed shorelines, permafrost features, and sweeping views across Franklin Bay.
  • Why it matters: This is utterly untouched wilderness that very few people ever experience. There are no buildings, no power lines, no signs of human habitation whatsoever. It’s about as far from civilization as you can get in North America.
  • Time needed: Usually incorporated into your shore landing time, adding no extra time to your visit.
  • Practical tips: The sense of remoteness is powerful and slightly unnerving for some visitors. Mobile phones have no signal. GPS units work but there’s nowhere to go anyway. The experience is about being present in a wild place rather than ticking off attractions.

Arctic Wildlife Viewing

  • What it is: The Cape Bathurst region supports Arctic fox, caribou, occasional polar bears, and various seabird species. Marine mammals including beluga whales and seals may be visible from the ship.
  • Why it matters: Wildlife viewing here happens in completely natural conditions without human infrastructure influencing animal behavior. You’re seeing Arctic species in their actual habitat, not in viewing areas designed for tourists.
  • Time needed: Wildlife encounters are opportunistic and can’t be scheduled. Binocular scanning from the ship or during shore time adds 15-30 minutes to your experience.
  • Practical tips: Bring quality binoculars (8×42 or 10×42 magnification). If a polar bear is spotted, all shore operations immediately cease and everyone returns to the ship. Respect the wildlife viewing guidelines your expedition staff provide. Never approach, feed, or attempt to attract animals.

Geological and Environmental Interpretation

  • What it is: Expedition naturalists and geologists provide detailed interpretation of the unique geology, the combustion process, the environmental impact of the acidic runoff, and the broader Arctic ecosystem.
  • Why it matters: Without expert interpretation, you’re just looking at smoking cliffs. The guides explain why this happens, what it tells us about geology and climate, and how this extreme environment supports life.
  • Time needed: Briefings typically happen shipboard before and after shore operations, totaling 1-2 hours of presentations.
  • Practical tips: Take notes or photos of the interpretation materials because this information isn’t available in guidebooks or online in much detail. Ask questions during briefings rather than waiting until shore time when guides are focused on safety.

Port Day Itinerary: Things to Do in a Typical Visit

Here’s what a realistic visit to Smoking Hills looks like, based on typical expedition cruise operations. Remember that everything is weather-dependent and the actual schedule is determined by the captain and expedition leader.

  • 06:30-07:30 | Ship Positioning and Wake-Up Call: The ship positions offshore of the Smoking Hills during the early morning. You’ll receive a wake-up announcement when the cliffs are visible. Head to deck with warm clothing and cameras for first light photography. The low sun angle creates dramatic lighting on the colorful cliffs.
  • 07:30-08:30 | Breakfast and Pre-Landing Briefing: Eat a proper breakfast because you don’t know when the next meal opportunity will come. Attend the mandatory shore briefing where expedition staff explain landing procedures, safety protocols regarding the sulfurous gases, wildlife precautions, and environmental guidelines. You’ll learn where you can and cannot walk, how long you’ll be ashore, and what the tender boarding process involves.
  • 08:30-09:00 | Tender Boarding: Passengers are called by groups to board Zodiacs from the ship’s platform. This takes time as expedition staff ensure everyone is wearing life jackets correctly and understands wet-landing procedures. Bring only weatherproof camera gear and essentials in a small waterproof dry bag.
  • 09:00-10:30 | Shore Landing at Smoking Hills: After a 10-15 minute Zodiac ride, you’ll make a wet landing on the rocky shore. Expect to step into shallow water. Once ashore, expedition guides lead you to designated viewing areas where you can safely observe and photograph the burning cliffs, acidic ponds, and surrounding tundra landscape. The guides point out geological features, wildlife signs, and explain the combustion process. Stay within marked boundaries due to toxic gas concentrations nearer the cliffs.
  • 10:30-11:00 | Return to Ship: Groups return to the beach for Zodiac pickup. The return journey provides different perspectives of the coastline and potential marine wildlife sightings.
  • 11:00-12:30 | Post-Landing Activities and Recap: Back aboard, you’ll have time to warm up, change into dry clothing, and download photos. The expedition team hosts a recap session discussing what you saw, answering questions, and providing additional geological and environmental context. Some ships offer hot chocolate or soup during the recap.
  • 12:30-14:00 | Lunch Aboard Ship: Enjoy lunch while the ship begins repositioning for the next destination. On calm days, you might have continued deck viewing of the Smoking Hills as you depart.
  • 14:00-17:00 | Afternoon Free Time or Alternative Activity: If weather prevented shore landings, this time might be used for alternative helicopter flights (if available and weather improves). Otherwise, use the time for rest, editing photos, or attending additional naturalist presentations about Arctic geology or ecosystems.

This schedule assumes favorable weather. In reality, many visitors to Smoking Hills never get ashore at all and experience the site entirely from the ship or via brief helicopter overflights. Build flexibility into your expectations.

Safety Tips

Smoking Hills presents unique safety challenges with harsh environment and natural hazards.

  • The primary safety concern is sulfur dioxide and other toxic gases emitted by the burning cliffs. These gases can cause respiratory irritation, headaches, and nausea even at relatively safe distances. Anyone with asthma, COPD, or other respiratory conditions should seriously consider staying aboard ship. Pregnant women should consult with the ship’s doctor before participating in shore landings. The expedition staff monitors gas concentrations and establishes safe viewing boundaries, but you must follow their instructions exactly.
  • Arctic weather can deteriorate rapidly. Hypothermia is a real risk even in summer if you get wet and the wind picks up. Dress in proper layers with windproof and waterproof outer shells. Cotton kills in cold environments—wear synthetic or wool base layers that retain warmth when damp. Frostbite can occur on exposed skin in windy conditions even when air temperatures are above freezing.
  • Wildlife safety is another consideration. Polar bears inhabit the Cape Bathurst region and while sightings during shore visits are rare, they’re possible. Expedition staff carry deterrents and scan the area before passengers land, but you must stay with the group and follow instructions immediately if a bear is spotted. Arctic foxes are relatively bold and curious but should never be approached or fed.
  • The terrain itself is hazardous. Uneven tundra hides ankle-turning rocks and soft marshy areas. The acidic ponds and streams near the cliffs are toxic and should never be touched or waded through. Some of the colorful mineral deposits are sharp and crumbly. Wear sturdy waterproof boots with good ankle support and watch your footing constantly.

Essential Items for Your Day in Smoking Hills Cape Bathurst

Given the extreme Arctic environment and unique challenges of Smoking Hills, here are the essential items that will make your visit safer and more comfortable:

Weather by Month

Smoking Hills is accessible only during the brief Arctic summer when ice conditions and daylight permit navigation in the Beaufort Sea. Here’s what to expect during the realistic visiting window.

Season/MonthTemperature RangeConditions & What to Expect
June-1°C to 8°CEarly season with potential for significant sea ice still present. Long daylight hours (20+ hours of daylight). Pack ice can prevent ship access to the coastline. Snow patches still visible on tundra. Migrating birds arriving. Coldest of the realistic visiting months with biting wind chill. Essential to have full Arctic cold-weather gear.
July3°C to 12°CPeak season for expedition cruises. Near-24-hour daylight provides maximum flexibility for operations and photography. Sea ice usually cleared enough for access. Tundra wildflowers blooming. Seabirds nesting on cliffs. Mosquitoes and biting flies can be intense during shore visits—bring bug spray and head nets. Weather remains highly changeable with fog, wind, and occasional rain. Temperatures feel colder due to wind.
August2°C to 11°CStill within the prime visiting window but daylight beginning to shorten (18-20 hours). Weather can be slightly more settled than July but fog remains common. Tundra vegetation turning autumn colors by late August. Seabird chicks fledging. First hint of autumn in the air. Good wildlife viewing as animals prepare for winter. Pack warm layers as temperatures can feel quite cold, especially in wind and rain.
September-2°C to 6°CLate season with rapidly diminishing daylight (down to 12-14 hours by month end). Increased risk of autumn storms and rough seas. Some early season snow possible. Pack ice beginning to form again. Few expedition ships visit this late in the season. Spectacular autumn tundra colors but significantly colder conditions. Northern lights become visible again as darkness returns.
October-May-30°C to -5°C (winter)Completely inaccessible to cruise ships. The Beaufort Sea is frozen solid, darkness prevails for much of winter, and temperatures plunge to extreme levels. No tourism operations whatsoever during these months. The area is locked in Arctic winter with 24-hour darkness from November through January.

Pack for the coldest scenario regardless of when you visit. Arctic weather is unpredictable and a calm sunny morning can turn into a howling gale by afternoon. Layering is essential: base layers (synthetic or merino wool), insulating mid-layers (fleece or down), and windproof waterproof outer shells. Warm hat, gloves, and neck protection are mandatory even in July and August.

Common Questions & FAQ

Can cruise ships actually dock at Smoking Hills?

No, there are no docking facilities whatsoever. Ships anchor offshore in Franklin Bay and all passenger transfers happen via tender boats or helicopters. The coastline is too rugged and remote for any permanent infrastructure, and the hazardous gases from the burning cliffs would make a permanent dock dangerous anyway. This is expedition cruising at its most authentic—completely reliant on weather, sea conditions, and the captain’s judgment about safe operations.

How close can you actually get to the burning cliffs?

Safety protocols keep visitors at least 50-100 meters from the actively burning sections due to toxic sulfur dioxide concentrations. You can photograph the cliffs clearly from these safe distances with a decent zoom lens, but you won’t be standing right next to the flames. Helicopter overflights provide closer viewing from above, flying past the cliff faces at safe altitudes. The expedition guides establish viewing perimeters based on wind direction and gas monitoring, and these boundaries are non-negotiable.

What happens if weather prevents landing at Smoking Hills?

Weather cancellations are common at Smoking Hills. If sea conditions or fog prevent tender operations and helicopter flights, you’ll view the site from the ship’s deck using binoculars. The expedition staff will still provide commentary and interpretation, and you can photograph from ship. It’s disappointing but it’s part of Arctic expedition cruising—the weather is in charge, not the cruise line. Most expedition cruise contracts explicitly state that itineraries are subject to weather and ice conditions without compensation for missed landings. For more information on what to expect from Arctic Canada expedition cruises, including how cruise lines handle weather-related changes, check our detailed guide.

Is Smoking Hills suitable for people with mobility issues?

Honestly, no. Getting into and out of Zodiac boats requires good balance, reasonable fitness, and the ability to step from a bouncing platform onto an inflatable boat. Shore landings involve wet landings where you step into shallow water and walk across uneven rocky beaches and soft tundra. There are no paved paths, handrails, or accessibility features. People with significant mobility limitations are better off experiencing Smoking Hills from the ship’s deck or via helicopter if they can safely board the aircraft. Discuss your specific situation with the cruise line’s accessibility coordinator before booking.

Do I need any special vaccinations for visiting Smoking Hills?

No special vaccinations are required for Arctic Canada beyond routine immunizations that should be up to date (tetanus, etc.). The area is uninhabited so there’s no disease transmission from populations. The health risks are environmental—cold exposure, potential gas exposure, and remoteness—rather than infectious disease. Make sure you have adequate travel insurance that covers emergency medical evacuation from remote regions, which can cost tens of thousands of pounds if needed.

Can you see polar bears at Smoking Hills?

Polar bears inhabit the Cape Bathurst region and sightings are possible but not guaranteed. Bears tend to be more concentrated along the ice edge and in areas with better seal hunting, which may or may not be near Smoking Hills depending on seasonal ice conditions. If a bear is spotted near a proposed landing site, the landing is cancelled for safety. If a bear appears while passengers are already ashore, everyone immediately returns to the Zodiacs and returns to ship. You’re more likely to spot bears from the ship while transiting along the coast than during the brief shore visit window. Bring quality binoculars and a telephoto lens for bear photography from safe distances.

How does Smoking Hills compare to other Northwest Territories cruise stops?

Smoking Hills is purely a natural phenomenon with no cultural or community component, unlike stops at Ulukhaktok or Tuktoyaktuk where you interact with Inuvialuit communities and learn about contemporary Arctic life. If you’re interested in the geological and environmental side of the Arctic, Smoking Hills is fascinating. If you prefer cultural experiences and meeting local people, the community stops will be more rewarding. Ideally, an Arctic expedition itinerary includes both natural wonders like Smoking Hills and cultural stops at Indigenous communities for a well-rounded experience.

What’s the best camera equipment for photographing Smoking Hills?

A telephoto zoom lens (70-200mm minimum, 100-400mm ideal) is essential because you’re photographing from distance. A sturdy waterproof camera bag or drybag is mandatory for Zodiac transits—salt spray and water will ruin unprotected gear. Bring extra batteries because cold temperatures drain battery power quickly; keep spare batteries in an inner pocket against your body to stay warm. A polarizing filter helps with glare off water and enhances the colors of the mineral deposits in the cliffs. If you’re shooting from Zodiacs or ship deck, fast shutter speeds (1/500 or faster) compensate for vessel motion. The low-angle Arctic light during morning and evening produces the most dramatic cliff colors.

Personal Experience

Standing on the deck as we approached Smoking Hills at Cape Bathurst, I couldn’t believe what I was seeing. Actual smoke rising from the cliffs! Turns out it’s not really smoke at all, but sulfurous gases seeping through the colorful layered rock formations that have been smoldering for centuries. The cliffs glow in shades of orange, red, and yellow against the gray Arctic sky, creating this almost otherworldly landscape that looks more like Mars than Canada’s Northwest Territories. Our expedition guide explained how the exposed lignite coal in these cliffs ignites spontaneously, and honestly, it’s one of those natural phenomena you really have to see to understand.

What surprised me most was the wildlife. Despite the harsh, remote environment, we spotted Arctic foxes darting along the shoreline and several species of seabirds nesting in the cliff faces. The area is pretty much untouched wilderness—there’s no dock, no visitors center, just pure, raw Arctic nature. We went ashore via Zodiac boats, and the staff made sure everyone understood this is a leave-no-trace kind of place. Dress in serious layers even in summer because that Arctic wind cuts right through you, and bring good binoculars. The whole experience feels like you’re visiting a place few people will ever get to see, which makes it pretty special when you’re actually there.