Portofino sits about 60 kilometres up the coast from La Spezia, and getting there isn’t quite as straightforward as you might hope. There’s no direct train to the village itself, the ferry only runs during peak summer months, and the bus requires at least one connection. But once you understand the transport puzzle, this iconic Ligurian harbour makes for a manageable port day if you’re after those Instagram-worthy pastel buildings and superyacht scenery.
The reality is that Portofino is smaller than most people expect – you can walk the entire harbour front in about ten minutes – and prices reflect its status as a millionaire’s playground. But the combination of dramatic coastal setting and that perfect little piazza does deliver exactly what you’ve seen in the photos, even if it feels more like a luxury resort than an authentic Italian fishing village.
The Train Option: Fastest and Most Reliable
Taking the train is the most dependable way to reach Portofino from La Spezia, and it’s what most cruise passengers end up doing. You’ll take a regional train from La Spezia Centrale to Santa Margherita Ligure-Portofino station, which takes about 60-75 minutes. Trains run frequently throughout the day – typically several departures per hour – and tickets cost around €5-7 each way.
From Santa Margherita Ligure station, you have two choices to cover the final stretch to Portofino:
- Bus #782: Runs approximately every 30 minutes along the scenic coastal road, taking about 20 minutes to reach Portofino. Tickets cost around €3 and can be purchased at tabacchi shops or sometimes from the driver.
- Taxi: Faster but significantly pricier at €25-30 for the short ride. Worth considering if you’re in a group of three or four splitting the cost.
- Walk: The 5km coastal path is stunning but takes a good 90 minutes and involves some hills. Only realistic if you have plenty of time and reasonable fitness.
The train-plus-bus combination gives you the best balance of cost, reliability and travel time. Total door-to-door time from the cruise terminal is typically 90-120 minutes each way, depending on connections.
Ferry Service: Scenic But Seasonal
A direct ferry from La Spezia to Portofino sounds ideal, and the sea views along the Ligurian coast are genuinely spectacular. The problem is availability. Ferry services typically only operate from late spring through early autumn, and even then, schedules can be limited or cancelled due to sea conditions.
When ferries do run, expect:
- Journey time of roughly 90 minutes to 2 hours
- Higher cost than the train, usually €20-30 one way
- Limited departure times, often just one or two per day
- Weather-dependent operation – choppy seas mean cancellations
If you’re visiting during summer months and the timing works with your ship’s schedule, the ferry delivers unbeatable coastal scenery and deposits you right at Portofino’s harbour. But the unreliability makes it risky for cruise passengers who can’t afford to miss the ship. Always have a backup train plan ready.
Bus Routes: Cheapest But Most Complex
Going by bus alone is theoretically possible but involves multiple connections and significantly longer travel time – often well over two hours each way. Most itineraries combine regional buses from La Spezia with connections through Rapallo or Santa Margherita Ligure, where you’d then catch the same bus #782 that train passengers use.
The bus-only route might save you a few euros, but the time penalty and schedule uncertainty make it the least attractive option for cruise passengers working with limited port hours. The train-plus-bus combination offers better value for your time.
Transport Comparison at a Glance
| Method | Travel Time | Approximate Cost | Reliability | Best For |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Train + Bus | 90-120 mins | €8-10 each way | High | Most cruise passengers |
| Train + Taxi | 75-90 mins | €30-35 each way | High | Groups, tight schedules |
| Ferry | 90-120 mins | €20-30 each way | Low (seasonal) | Summer visits, scenic priority |
| Bus only | 120+ mins | €6-8 each way | Medium | Budget travellers with time |
Is Portofino Actually Worth Your Port Day?
This is the question you should be asking yourself, because Portofino competes directly with other excellent options from La Spezia. The village delivers on its visual promise – that harbour really is as picturesque as the photos suggest – but it’s tiny, expensive, and packed with tourists and luxury shoppers rather than local character.
Here’s what you get for your time investment:
- 30-40 minutes to explore the harbour front and main piazza
- Another 30 minutes if you walk up to Castello Brown (small castle with harbour views, entrance fee around €5)
- 15-minute walk to the lighthouse at Punta del Capo if you fancy a quieter viewpoint
- That’s genuinely about it – most people have seen everything within two hours
Compare this to spending your day in the Cinque Terre villages, which offer more variety, better hiking, and arguably more authentic Italian atmosphere. Or consider that Florence is reachable in about 2.5 hours by train if you’re after Renaissance art and architecture instead of coastal scenery.
Portofino makes sense if you specifically want that polished Mediterranean resort experience, you’re not interested in hiking the Cinque Terre trails, or you’ve already visited the other options on previous cruises. It’s perfectly pleasant but undeniably touristy, and lunch by the harbour will set you back €20-30 per person minimum.
Practical Tips for Your Visit
A few things that’ll make your Portofino day trip smoother:
- Buy train tickets in advance: You can purchase them online or at La Spezia Centrale station. No seat reservations needed for regional trains, but having tickets ready saves queuing time.
- Check the last train back: Regional services run late into the evening, but verify the schedule for your specific date. Missing the last connection would be expensive and stressful.
- Bring cash for the bus: Some drivers accept cards but not all. Having exact change for bus tickets (around €3) prevents hassle.
- Skip lunch at the harbour if you’re budget-conscious: Those waterfront restaurants charge premium prices. You’ll find slightly better value if you walk a couple of streets back from the main piazza, or just grab a gelato and snack instead.
- Time your visit around cruise ship arrivals: Portofino gets even busier when large ships are docked at La Spezia. Arriving early morning (before 10am) or later afternoon (after 3pm) means fewer crowds.
- The walk to Castello Brown is steeper than it looks: Allow 15-20 minutes uphill. Views are excellent but similar to what you’ll see from various points around the harbour for free. Pack a pair of comfortable women’s walking shoes or supportive men’s walking shoes for those cobblestone streets and hillside paths.
- Protect yourself from blisters: If you’re planning any walking, bring blister prevention products – those picturesque cobblestones can be rough on your feet after a few hours.
Want to know more about getting oriented at La Spezia cruise port and transport options?
Santa Margherita Ligure: The Alternative Option
Here’s an insider tip that many cruise passengers miss: Santa Margherita Ligure (where you change for Portofino) is actually a more pleasant place to spend time than Portofino itself. It’s a proper Italian town rather than a luxury resort village, with a lovely waterfront promenade, far better restaurant prices, and the same beautiful Ligurian setting.
If you arrive in Santa Margherita and think “this looks nice,” you’re not wrong. Some passengers split their time between both places, spending an hour or two in Portofino for the photos, then returning to Santa Margherita for a proper lunch and waterfront stroll. This gives you the best of both worlds without feeling rushed.
Timing Your Day Trip
Most cruise ships dock at La Spezia between 7am and 8am, and all-aboard time is typically around 5pm or 6pm. That gives you a solid eight to nine hours ashore, which is plenty for Portofino even accounting for transport time.
A typical timeline looks like this:
- 8:00am – Shuttle from ship to town centre/train station (allow 20-30 minutes)
- 8:30am – Train from La Spezia Centrale to Santa Margherita Ligure
- 9:30am – Arrive Santa Margherita, catch bus #782 to Portofino
- 10:00am – Arrive Portofino, explore the village
- 1:00pm – Lunch (in Portofino or back in Santa Margherita)
- 2:30pm – More exploring or start return trip
- 4:00pm – Back at La Spezia Centrale
- 4:30pm – Return to ship
This schedule gives you three to four hours in Portofino with comfortable buffer time. You can adjust based on your ship’s specific times, but the key is leaving enough cushion for transport delays or missed connections. Make sure your phone stays charged with a compact 10000mah portable charger for checking schedules and taking photos throughout the day.
What About Combining It With Cinque Terre?
Some ambitious passengers try to fit both Portofino and one or two Cinque Terre villages into a single port day. Geographically it’s not impossible – the Cinque Terre villages are between La Spezia and Santa Margherita Ligure – but practically it’s a squeeze that leaves you rushing through both experiences.
If you want to attempt this combination:
- Take an early train toward Santa Margherita, stopping at Monterosso al Mare (first Cinque Terre village) for 90 minutes
- Continue to Santa Margherita and Portofino for a couple of hours
- Return via Riomaggiore or Manarola (southernmost Cinque Terre villages) for a final hour
This gives you a taste of both areas but doesn’t allow time for hiking between villages or lingering anywhere. You’ll also be dealing with more complicated ticket logistics and tighter connections. Most people find it more satisfying to pick one option and do it properly rather than rushing through multiple destinations.
Similarly, passengers docking at Livorno face comparable choices between Florence, Pisa, and coastal options, where focusing on one destination typically delivers a better experience than trying to see everything.
Extend Your Stay in La Spezia
If you’re considering arriving a day before your cruise or staying after it ends, La Spezia makes a practical base for exploring this stretch of the Italian Riviera. Accommodation in La Spezia is significantly cheaper than in Portofino or the Cinque Terre villages themselves, and you’ll have better transport connections to multiple destinations along the coast.
Hotels in La Spezia range from basic budget options near the station to more comfortable properties along the waterfront promenade. The town itself is pleasant rather than spectacular – it’s a working port city rather than a tourist resort – but that means real Italian restaurants at normal prices and a much more authentic atmosphere than you’ll find in the heavily touristed villages nearby.
An extra day gives you time to visit Portofino without the pressure of ship departure times, or to properly explore multiple Cinque Terre villages with the freedom to hike the coastal paths between them. The regional train network makes it easy to reach any of these destinations within an hour, and you’ll avoid the rush that comes with day-tripping from a cruise ship.
Personal Experience
We docked at La Spezia on a sunny Tuesday, and I had about eight hours to decide between the Cinque Terre crowds or that picture-perfect Portofino harbour I’d been seeing everywhere online. After checking the ferry schedule at the port, I found out the direct boat only runs in peak summer season, so that was out. The train turned out to be the easiest option – just 30 minutes to Santa Margherita Ligure, then either a quick 20-minute bus ride along the coast or another short train hop to Portofino. The bus #782 runs pretty regularly, about every 30 minutes, and honestly, those coastal views through the window made it feel like part of the experience rather than just transport.
Was it worth using my precious port day for Portofino instead of Cinque Terre? For me, yes. The town is tiny and touristy, sure, but there’s something special about standing in that little harbour surrounded by pastel buildings and million-dollar yachts. I grabbed lunch at a café on the piazza (pricey but expected), walked up to Castello Brown for the elevated views, and still made it back to the ship with time to spare. The whole trip took about 90 minutes each way, which left me a solid four hours to explore. If you’re looking for authentic Italian charm, this isn’t it. But if you want that postcard-perfect Mediterranean moment and some seriously good gelato, the train-bus combo from La Spezia makes it totally doable. I kept my European power adapter and portable charger with built-in cable in my day bag – essential for keeping devices topped up while navigating train schedules and capturing those harbour photos.
Essential Items to Pack for Your Portofino Day Trip
While Portofino is glamorous, it’s still a coastal destination with plenty of walking involved. Here are the essentials that’ll make your visit more comfortable:
- Light rain protection: Ligurian weather can be unpredictable. A packable women’s rain jacket or men’s waterproof jacket takes up minimal space but provides essential coverage.
- Layered clothing: Spring and autumn can be cool in the mornings. Consider a lightweight puffer jacket for women or compact men’s puffer jacket that compresses into your day bag.
- Organization: Keep your documents, cards, and phone secure in an anti-theft messenger bag or anti-theft backpack while navigating trains and buses.
- Cable management: A travel cable organizer keeps your charging cables, adapter, and earbuds tangle-free throughout the day.
- Water bottle: Stay hydrated without buying expensive bottled water – a collapsible water bottle saves space when empty and can be refilled at public fountains.
- Protection for valuables: Use a waterproof phone pouch if you’re getting close to the water’s edge for photos or planning to visit beaches nearby.
Common Questions & FAQ
How long does it take to get from La Spezia cruise port to Portofino?
The total journey takes approximately 90-120 minutes each way. This includes the shuttle from your ship to La Spezia Centrale station (20-30 minutes), the train to Santa Margherita Ligure (60-75 minutes), and the bus #782 from Santa Margherita to Portofino (20 minutes). Allow extra time for connections and potential waits between services, particularly for the bus which runs roughly every 30 minutes.
Can I walk from Santa Margherita Ligure to Portofino?
Yes, there’s a scenic 5km coastal path connecting the two towns, but it takes about 90 minutes and involves some uphill sections. The path is beautiful with excellent sea views, but only realistic if you have plenty of time and decent fitness levels. Most cruise passengers opt for the bus to maximise time in Portofino itself, though some walk one direction and bus the other. Definitely wear proper walking shoes for women or walking shoes for men if attempting this coastal hike.
Is there a direct ferry from La Spezia port to Portofino?
Direct ferry service exists but only operates seasonally, typically from late spring through early autumn. Even during summer months, schedules are limited with often just one or two departures per day, and services can be cancelled due to sea conditions. The ferry takes 90-120 minutes and costs around €20-30 one way. For cruise passengers who can’t risk missing the ship, the train remains the more reliable option.
How much time do I need in Portofino?
Two to three hours is sufficient for most visitors to see the harbour, explore the small piazza, have a drink or light meal, and walk up to Castello Brown for elevated views. The village is genuinely tiny – you can walk the entire harbour front in ten minutes. Some passengers feel satisfied after just an hour, while photography enthusiasts might want three hours to capture the setting properly and walk to the lighthouse at Punta del Capo.
Are restaurants in Portofino expensive?
Yes, prices reflect Portofino’s status as a luxury destination. Expect to pay €20-30 minimum per person for a basic lunch at harbour-front restaurants, with main courses often €18-25 and drinks around €6-8. You’ll find slightly better value if you walk back from the main piazza, or consider eating in Santa Margherita Ligure instead where prices are more reasonable. Many cruise passengers opt for gelato and snacks rather than a full meal to manage costs.
Should I choose Portofino or Cinque Terre from La Spezia?
Cinque Terre offers more variety with five villages to explore, better hiking opportunities, and arguably more authentic Italian character. Portofino delivers that polished Mediterranean resort experience with picture-perfect harbour views but less substance beyond the scenery. Choose Portofino if you want a relaxed, photogenic day without hiking, or if you’ve already visited Cinque Terre on previous cruises. Choose Cinque Terre if you prefer exploring multiple villages, hiking coastal trails, and experiencing more traditional Italian fishing village atmosphere.
What time is the last train back from Santa Margherita Ligure to La Spezia?
Regional trains typically run until late evening, often past 10pm, but exact times vary by day and season. Always check the current schedule for your specific travel date before you go, and plan to catch a train that gets you back to La Spezia at least 90 minutes before your ship’s all-aboard time. This buffer accounts for any delays and the shuttle journey from La Spezia Centrale back to the cruise terminal. Keep your phone charged with a 20000mah portable charger to check schedules throughout the day.
Do I need to book train tickets in advance for Portofino?
Advance booking isn’t strictly required for regional trains between La Spezia and Santa Margherita Ligure, as these services don’t require seat reservations. However, buying tickets ahead of time (online or at the station before you leave) saves queuing and ensures you can board the first available train without delay. Tickets cost around €5-7 each way and are valid for regional services throughout the day of travel.