Map of Secret Beaches La Spezia
Personal Experience
Last summer, I ditched the packed Cinque Terre beaches and asked my Airbnb host where she actually goes swimming. She looked almost conspiratorial before scribbling down three names: Eco del Mare, Fezzano, and San Terenzo. These spots are maybe fifteen minutes from the La Spezia cruise port, but they feel like a completely different world. At Eco del Mare, I found myself on a tiny pebble beach wedged between rocks, sharing space with maybe a dozen Italian families who’d clearly been coming here for years. The water was so clear I could see tiny fish darting around my ankles, and there wasn’t a tour group in sight.
Fezzano turned out to be this sleepy fishing village with a small beach where old guys were playing cards at a beachside bar, completely unbothered by tourists. San Terenzo was my favorite though β a proper sandy beach with a castle backdrop and locals doing their evening passeggiata along the waterfront. I grabbed focaccia from a bakery where no one spoke English and ate it on the beach while watching the sunset. The best part? When I asked for directions back, three different people stopped to help, genuinely happy I’d found their corner of the coast. It’s exactly the kind of Italy you hope exists but rarely stumble into when you’re following the cruise ship crowds.
Want to know more about getting around the port area? Check out our complete La Spezia cruise ship port guide for all the practical details you’ll need.
Why Skip Cinque Terre Beaches
The Cinque Terre villages are stunning, but their beaches are a different story entirely. You’ll pay β¬20+ for a sun lounger at Monterosso, queue for the loos, and spread your towel approximately 40 centimetres from the next person. The locals know this and actively avoid these spots during cruise ship season.
The beaches I’m sharing here are where Italian families actually spend their summer Sundays. You won’t find postcard racks or overpriced aperitivi, but you will find clear water, actual space to breathe, and the odd nonna offering you homemade focaccia. They’re all within a short bus or taxi ride from the port, which means you can be swimming within 30 minutes of leaving your ship.
San Terenzo Beach
San Terenzo sits just across the bay from Lerici and feels like stepping back about forty years. The beach stretches for a decent length with a mix of sand and small pebbles, backed by a promenade where locals walk their dogs and chat at the same cafΓ© tables they’ve probably used for decades.
Getting there: Bus 11 from La Spezia train station takes about 20 minutes and drops you right at the beach. Buses run every 30 minutes or so. A taxi costs around β¬15-20.
What to expect:
- Mostly free beach space with a couple of small stabilimenti (beach clubs) if you want a lounger
- Clean facilities including public showers and changing rooms
- Shallow water perfect if you’re bringing kids
- The 15th-century Castello di San Terenzo perched above the bay
- Proper Italian families doing the whole Sunday beach routine β inflatable toys, massive cool boxes, and grandparents sitting fully dressed in the shade
Insider tip: The pasticceria near the bus stop does incredible trofie al pesto for takeaway. Grab some for lunch and eat it on the beach like the locals do. Also, arrive before 10am if you want prime sand real estate on a Sunday.
Fezzano Beach
Fezzano is a working fishing village that happens to have a small public beach. This isn’t somewhere you’ll spend an entire day unless you’re really into watching boats and old men arguing about football, but it’s perfect for a quick swim and a very authentic slice of Ligurian life.
Getting there: Bus 11 stops here on the way to San Terenzo. It’s about 15 minutes from La Spezia. The beach is a short walk from the bus stop through the village.
What to expect:
- A small pebble beach with fishing boats pulled up alongside
- One beach bar that serves cold beer and not much else
- Locals who’ll stare at you for about thirty seconds before completely ignoring you
- Crystal-clear water because there’s less swimming traffic
- Zero facilities beyond the bar’s toilet (which you should probably buy something to use)
Insider tip: The little trattoria up the hill β Da Peppino β is where fishermen actually eat. It’s cash only, the menu changes based on the catch, and nobody speaks English. Point at what the next table is eating and you’ll be fine. The fritto misto is ridiculous.
Eco del Mare

This one’s the hardest to find, which is precisely why it stays quiet. Eco del Mare isn’t really a beach β it’s more of a rocky inlet with a tiny strip of pebbles where local families have carved out swimming spots among the rocks. You’ll need to be reasonably mobile to clamber down, but the payoff is swimming in water so clear it looks fake.
Getting there: This requires a bit more effort. Take bus 11 towards San Terenzo but get off at the Muggiano stop. From there it’s about a 10-minute walk following signs towards the waterfront. Ask locals for “Eco del Mare” and they’ll point you in the right direction β it’s down a small path.
What to expect:
- Tiny space with room for maybe 30-40 people maximum
- Flat rocks perfect for sunbathing between swims
- Deep water almost immediately β proper swimming rather than paddling
- Absolutely nothing in the way of services or facilities
- The occasional boat passing by but otherwise completely peaceful
Insider tip: Bring water-friendly walking shoes because the rocks can be slippery, and pack everything you need including food and plenty of water. There’s nowhere to buy anything once you’re down there. The locals bring cool boxes and make a proper day of it. Also, check tide times β high tide reduces the usable space significantly.
Four More Local Favourites
Beyond the main three, here are four additional spots that locals use when they want a change of scene. These range from easy to access to “bring your hiking boots” territory.
Lerici Beach
The main Lerici beach gets busy, but walk past the stabilimenti towards the far eastern end and you’ll find a free section where it’s mostly locals. The water stays shallow for ages, which makes it popular with Italian families. Bus 11 runs directly here, or you can catch a ferry from La Spezia port in summer months. The castle above the beach is worth a quick look if you fancy a break from sunbathing.
Spiaggia di Fiascherino
This tiny cove between Lerici and Tellaro requires a car or taxi (about β¬25 from the port) but rewards you with genuinely beautiful surroundings. It’s a small pebble beach squeezed into a rocky bay with turquoise water. Parking is limited and fills up quickly, so arrive early or come late afternoon. There’s one small beach club but plenty of free space if you’re happy on pebbles.
Punta Corvo
For those who don’t mind a bit of a hike, Punta Corvo offers swimming off flat rocks in a protected marine area. Park in Tellaro (taxi from La Spezia is about β¬30) and follow the coastal path for roughly 30 minutes. The water here is exceptionally clear because it’s part of a protected zone. Bring proper shoes and be prepared for a scramble down to the water. This is for confident swimmers only β there’s no beach, just jumping off rocks into deep water.
Baia Blu
Between La Spezia and Lerici, Baia Blu is the compromise option β easier to reach than some spots but less developed than the main beaches. It’s a mix of pebbles and small sandy patches with a laid-back beach club that doesn’t charge tourist prices. The ATC bus stops nearby, and there’s parking if you’ve hired a car. The crowd skews younger and it gets lively in the evenings, but daytimes are relaxed.
Practical Beach Information
Here’s what you need to know before you head off from the ship:
| Beach | Travel Time from Port | Facilities | Best For | Cost |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| San Terenzo | 25 minutes | Full facilities, cafΓ©s, showers | Families, easy access | Free (loungers β¬10-15) |
| Fezzano | 20 minutes | Basic bar only | Authentic village vibe | Free |
| Eco del Mare | 30 minutes | None | Clear water, peace | Free |
| Lerici | 30 minutes | Full facilities | Easy day out | Free section available |
| Fiascherino | 35 minutes | Small beach club | Scenic beauty | Free (club optional) |
| Punta Corvo | 45 minutes + hike | None | Adventurous swimmers | Free |
| Baia Blu | 20 minutes | Beach club, parking | Younger crowd | Free (club optional) |
What to Bring
- Water shoes for pebble beaches and rocky entries
- Your own towel and beach mat β Italian beaches don’t provide these unless you rent a lounger
- Plenty of water and snacks, especially for Eco del Mare and Punta Corvo
- Cash for buses, beach clubs, and the small cafΓ©s (many don’t take cards)
- High-factor sun cream because the Ligurian sun is stronger than it looks
- A waterproof dry bag for your phone and valuables if you’re swimming off rocks
Transport Logistics
The ATC bus system in La Spezia is straightforward once you’ve done it once. Buy tickets at tabacchi shops near the port (look for the big “T” sign) or sometimes directly from the driver. Single tickets cost around β¬1.50 and are valid for 90 minutes. The main bus you want is the number 11, which connects La Spezia to Lerici and stops at Fezzano and San Terenzo along the way.
Taxis line up near the cruise terminal but can be scarce during busy periods. If you’re planning to use one, grab a business card from your driver and arrange a pickup time β it’s far easier than trying to hail one later. Expect to pay β¬15-30 depending on which beach you’re heading to.
If you’re feeling adventurous and have a full day in port, consider hiring a scooter from one of the rental places near the station. It gives you the freedom to hop between beaches and explore at your own pace. You’ll need an international driving permit and a decent level of confidence with Italian traffic.
Beach Etiquette and Local Customs
Italian beach culture has some unwritten rules that’ll help you blend in rather than stick out as cruise passengers:
- Don’t spread out too much β Italians are comfortable with less personal space than British or American beachgoers
- If you’re using a free beach, respect the spots that regular families clearly claim every year (you’ll know them by the elaborate tent setups)
- Keep noise levels reasonable, especially if there are older people nearby
- Don’t walk between someone and the water when they’re sunbathing β always walk around behind them
- If someone offers you food or drink, it’s polite to accept a small amount even if you’re not hungry
- Take all your rubbish with you β bins can be scarce and locals take pride in keeping their beaches clean
Timing Your Beach Visit
Most cruise ships dock in La Spezia around 7-8am and depart by 6-7pm, giving you a solid day ashore. If you’re planning a beach day, here’s how to make it work:
Best arrival times: Get to the beach by 9-10am to claim a good spot and avoid the worst heat. Locals tend to arrive mid-morning after a leisurely breakfast, so you’ll beat them there. This also gives you time to swim, relax, and still get back to the ship with plenty of buffer.
Lunch timing: Italians eat late β restaurants don’t really get going until 1pm. If you want authentic food at the beachside places, plan accordingly. Alternatively, grab takeaway focaccia or pizza and eat it on the beach.
Getting back: Give yourself at least 90 minutes to get back to the port from any of these beaches. That includes waiting for buses, the actual journey, and walking back to the ship. Don’t cut it fine β missing your ship because you were swimming is an expensive mistake.
For a properly relaxed day that doesn’t involve rushing, aim to be back at the port area by 4pm. You’ll have time for a shower, maybe a quick drink, and you won’t spend the bus ride stressing about the time.
Food and Drink Near the Beaches
Part of the appeal of these local beaches is the food situation β you’re eating where Italians eat, not where tour groups get shepherded.
San Terenzo: Several small cafΓ©s along the promenade serve decent panini and cold drinks. The gelateria near the castle does proper artisan gelato, not the bright-coloured tourist stuff. For something more substantial, Trattoria L’Oca Bianca just off the beach serves excellent seafood pasta and doesn’t inflate prices for outsiders.
Fezzano: As mentioned earlier, Da Peppino up the hill is your best bet for a real meal. Down by the beach, the bar does acceptable toasted sandwiches and keeps cold beer in stock. That’s about it β this isn’t a place with dining options.
Eco del Mare: Nothing. You’re on your own. The nearest shop is back in Muggiano, so stock up before you walk down.
Lerici: Loads of options here, though quality varies wildly. Stick to places that look busy with Italian families rather than empty tourist traps with English menus. The market near the castle sells fresh fruit, cheese, and bread perfect for a beach picnic.
Swimming Conditions and Safety
The Ligurian Sea here is generally calm and safe for swimming, but there are a few things to know:
- Most of these beaches don’t have lifeguards β you’re swimming at your own risk
- Jellyfish occasionally show up in late summer, though they’re rarely dangerous
- The water temperature peaks around 24-26Β°C in July and August, which is lovely but not tropical
- Rocky areas like Eco del Mare and Punta Corvo suit confident swimmers only
- Watch out for boats, especially at Fezzano where fishing vessels come and go
- If you see red flags at beach clubs, respect them β conditions can get rough quickly
The good news is the water quality along this coast is excellent. Italy takes its bathing water seriously, and these beaches consistently score high on water quality tests. You’re not swimming in anything dodgy.
What These Beaches Don’t Have
It’s worth being clear about what you won’t find at these local spots, especially compared to the commercial beaches in Cinque Terre:
- English-speaking staff (or any staff at some of them)
- Organised water sports or activities
- Pristine sandy beaches β most are pebbles or rocky
- Convenient parking at all locations
- Umbrellas and loungers available to rent everywhere
- Clean public toilets at the smaller spots
- WiFi or phone charging facilities
- Beach showers at Eco del Mare or Punta Corvo
If those things matter to you, stick to Monterosso or the main Lerici beach. But if you’re after an authentic experience and don’t mind roughing it slightly, these spots deliver something far more memorable.
Combining Beaches with Sightseeing
You might feel guilty spending your entire port day on a beach when there’s so much to see. Here’s how to do both without exhausting yourself:
Morning beach, afternoon culture: Hit San Terenzo or Fezzano for swimming from 9am-1pm, then head to Lerici to see the castle and explore the old town. Catch the ferry back to La Spezia from Lerici (runs until early evening in summer) for nice views of the gulf.
Quick beach stop during a La Spezia one day itinerary: If you’re spending the day exploring La Spezia itself, factor in a quick dip at Baia Blu, which is barely outside the city. An hour there refreshes you better than another coffee stop.
Portovenere plus beach: Take the ferry or bus to Portovenere in the morning, explore the village and Byron’s Grotto, then stop at Fezzano or San Terenzo on the way back for a late afternoon swim. The light is gorgeous then and beaches are quieter.
Weather Considerations
The Ligurian coast has a reputation for good weather, but it’s not guaranteed. Here’s what to watch for:
Best months for beach days: June through September offer reliable swimming weather. May and October can be lovely but the water’s cool and you’re gambling on sun. Locals swim from late May through early October if they’re hardy.
Wind: The area can get breezy, especially in the afternoon. San Terenzo and Lerici are more sheltered than exposed spots like Punta Corvo. If it’s windy, the pebble beaches become less pleasant as you’ll be dodging flying towels and sand in your picnic.
Crowds: Italian school holidays run from mid-June through early September, with August being peak local holiday time. These beaches get busier then but nothing compared to Cinque Terre. Weekends see more locals; weekdays are quieter.
Extend Your Stay in La Spezia
If you’re considering staying in the area before or after your cruise, La Spezia makes a solid base that’s far less expensive than the Cinque Terre villages. The accommodation here ranges from budget hotels near the station to nicer places in the old town, and you’ll actually meet Italians who live here rather than just tourists passing through.
The advantage of hotels in La Spezia is location β you’re positioned perfectly for beach days, Cinque Terre visits, and trips to Portovenere or Lerici without the inflated prices. The city itself has some good restaurants (try the backstreets behind Via del Prione), a proper market, and a surprisingly interesting naval museum if the weather turns. Staying here means you can hit these local beaches on multiple days, figuring out which one suits you best and returning like a regular.
The ferry connections from La Spezia port to Portovenere and the Cinque Terre villages run frequently in summer, so you get the best of both worlds β affordable accommodation and easy access to the famous spots when you fancy them. If you’re packing for an extended stay, invest in some compression packing cubes to maximize your luggage space for beach gear alongside your sightseeing clothes.
Common Questions & FAQ
Can I walk to any beaches directly from the La Spezia cruise port?
Not really. The port itself is industrial and there’s no proper beach within walking distance. The closest swimmable spots are about 15-20 minutes away by bus or taxi. Baia Blu is the nearest at roughly 10 minutes by taxi, but you’ll still need transport. Don’t waste your time walking along the waterfront hoping to stumble onto a beach β it doesn’t exist in the immediate port area.
Are these beaches suitable if I’m travelling with young children?
San Terenzo is your best bet for kids β it has shallow water, proper facilities including toilets and showers, and places to buy food and drinks nearby. The beach shelves gently so smaller children can paddle safely. Lerici works well too for similar reasons. Avoid Eco del Mare and Punta Corvo with young kids β the access is tricky and the water gets deep quickly. Fezzano could work if your children are happy entertaining themselves, but there’s not much in the way of facilities.
How much cash should I bring for a beach day?
Budget around β¬50 per person to be comfortable. That covers bus tickets there and back (β¬3), a sun lounger if you want one (β¬10-15), lunch at a local trattoria (β¬15-20), drinks throughout the day (β¬5-10), and a gelato or two (β¬3-5). If you’re packing your own food and happy on free beach space, you could manage on β¬10-15 just for transport and drinks. Always bring cash β smaller beach bars and buses often don’t take cards. Keep your cash and cards secure in an anti-theft bag while you’re at the beach.
Will my phone work for navigation to these beaches?
Yes, but download offline maps before you leave the ship just in case. Phone signal is generally good in the built-up areas like San Terenzo and Lerici, but can be patchy at Eco del Mare and definitely unreliable on the walk to Punta Corvo. Google Maps works fine for bus routes and walking directions, but for the trickier spots like Eco del Mare, ask locals when you get off the bus β they’re used to pointing lost tourists in the right direction. Keep your phone charged with a compact portable charger so you don’t lose navigation halfway through the day.
Is it safe to leave belongings on the beach while swimming?
Generally yes at these local beaches, but don’t be stupid about it. Italian beach culture involves everyone keeping a casual eye on each other’s stuff, and theft is rare at these spots precisely because they’re frequented by locals who’d notice strangers acting suspiciously. That said, don’t leave your phone and wallet lying in plain sight. Take valuables in a waterproof phone pouch, or ask the family next to you to keep an eye on your things β they usually will. At busier spots like Lerici on weekends, be more cautious.
Can I buy beach equipment anywhere near these beaches?
San Terenzo and Lerici have small shops where you can buy basics like towels, cheap inflatables, and buckets and spades if you’ve forgotten things. But don’t expect a huge selection or bargain prices. For proper beach gear, there’s a Decathlon sporting goods store in La Spezia if you have time before heading to the beach. Fezzano, Eco del Mare, and the smaller spots have absolutely nothing β bring everything you need from the ship or buy it in La Spezia town before you leave. A quick-dry beach towel takes up minimal luggage space and is perfect for these beach days.
Do these beaches get really crowded at any time?
San Terenzo gets busy on summer Sundays when local families descend, but “busy” here means something different to Monterosso busy β you’ll still find space, just not acres of empty beach. Weekdays are noticeably quieter. Eco del Mare stays relatively peaceful because it’s harder to access and can only physically fit a limited number of people. Fezzano rarely gets packed. If you arrive by 9-10am at any of these spots, you’ll have your pick of positions even on popular days. August weekends are the only time these beaches feel genuinely full.
What happens if I miss the last bus back to La Spezia?
Don’t panic. Taxis are available in San Terenzo and Lerici, though you might wait a while and pay β¬20-30 to get back to the port. Fezzano is trickier β you may need to walk to San Terenzo to find a taxi. Check the bus times when you arrive at the beach and set an alarm on your phone for the second-to-last bus, giving yourself a safety buffer. The absolute worst case is calling a taxi from the port area taxi rank β they’ll come collect you but expect to pay a premium. Keep the ship’s departure time firmly in mind and work backwards from there.