La Spezia doesn’t make it onto many cruise highlight reels, and that’s exactly why it works. While everyone else queues for trains to the Cinque Terre, you can spend the day exploring a proper working Italian port city where locals actually outnumber tourists and lunch costs what it should. The city sits at the head of the Gulf of Poets, with a long waterfront promenade, a bustling market street, and enough authentic restaurants to make you wonder why you’d ever eat on the ship.

This itinerary focuses on La Spezia itself – the town your ship docks in – rather than rushing off to overcrowded villages. You’ll get a real sense of Ligurian life, eat proper local food, and still have time to poke around the castle or waterfront without sprinting back to make all-aboard.

Getting Your Bearings: Port to Town

Most cruise ships dock at Molo Garibaldi or the newer terminal area. From there, it’s about a 20-minute walk into the centre, or you can grab a taxi for around €10-15. The route is straightforward – follow the waterfront road towards the main harbour area and you’ll hit the promenade. If you’re planning any train trips to Cinque Terre or beyond, the walk from La Spezia cruise port to the train station takes about 25-30 minutes, or it’s a short taxi ride.

The town centre is compact. Via del Prione is the main pedestrian spine running roughly north-south through the old town, with lanes branching off in both directions. The seafront promenade (Passeggiata Morin) runs along the western edge. You can cover most of what matters on foot with a pair of comfortable walking shoes.

Morning: Via del Prione and the Market

Start early – around 8:30 or 9:00 AM – and head straight for Via del Prione. This is where La Spezia does its shopping. The street itself is lined with shops, but the real action happens on market days (Monday to Saturday mornings) when stalls spill out selling fruit, vegetables, cheese, olive oil, and fresh bread. It’s not a tourist market. You’ll see Italian grandmothers inspecting tomatoes and vendors shouting prices.

What to look for:

  • Focaccia stalls: Grab a piece of focaccia col formaggio (cheese focaccia) or plain focaccia with olive oil while it’s still warm. This is your breakfast.
  • Local cheese and salumi: If you’re into picnic supplies, buy some pecorino or salame from the vendors. They’ll let you taste first.
  • Produce stands: Seasonal fruit, especially in summer, is ridiculously cheap compared to ship prices.

The side streets off Via del Prione – Via Cavour, Via Colombo – are worth a wander too. You’ll find small bakeries, old-fashioned hardware shops, and the occasional cafe with locals reading newspapers over espresso.

Mid-Morning: Castello San Giorgio

If you want a view and a bit of history, walk up to Castello San Giorgio. The castle sits on a hill above the town and offers panoramic views over the Gulf of Poets and the harbour. It’s not a strenuous climb – maybe 15 minutes uphill from Via del Prione via Via XXVII Marzo.

The castle itself houses an archaeological museum. Opening hours are typically 10:30 AM to 5:00 PM, though winter hours can vary, so check locally if you’re visiting off-season. Entrance is usually a few euros. Even if museums aren’t your thing, the ramparts and views are worth the walk.

Alternatively, if military history is more interesting, the Naval Technical Museum is near the waterfront on Viale Amendola. It’s open roughly 8:30 AM to 7:30 PM most days and covers Italian naval history with ship models, uniforms, and navigational instruments. It’s compact, so you won’t lose half your day there.

Lunch: Where to Eat Like a Local

Lunch: Where to Eat Like a Local

This is where La Spezia earns its keep. Forget the waterfront tourist traps with multilingual menus and photos of pasta. Head inland slightly – around the Arsenal area or the side streets near Piazza Garibaldi – and look for places with handwritten chalkboards and a clientele that speaks Italian.

What to order:

  • Muscoli ripieni: Stuffed mussels, a local speciality. They’re baked with breadcrumbs, garlic, and herbs.
  • Spaghetti alle vongole or spaghetti ai frutti di mare: Clam spaghetti or mixed seafood pasta. Simple, fresh, and exactly what you want in a port city.
  • Acciughe: Anchovies. Ligurian anchovies are a big deal. You’ll find them marinated, fried, or in pasta sauces.
  • Trofie al pesto: Twisted pasta with Genovese pesto. Liguria invented pesto, so it’s worth trying the local version.
  • Farinata: A chickpea flour pancake, crispy on the outside, soft inside. Not every restaurant does it, but if you see it, order it.

Expect to pay €10-15 for a pasta dish, maybe €20-25 for a full meal with house wine. If someone tries to charge you double that and you’re not sitting on the harbour with a sea view, walk out. For more on what to eat and where, check out this guide to La Spezia local food.

Afternoon: Seafront Promenade and Public Gardens

After lunch, walk off the pasta along Passeggiata Morin, the long seafront promenade. It stretches from the harbour area down to the public gardens (Giardini Pubblici) at the southern end. The promenade is flat, shaded in parts by trees, and lined with benches. It’s where locals go for a passeggiata – that evening stroll Italians do so well.

The public gardens at the southern end are pleasant if you want to sit down properly. There’s a small cafe, some sculptures, and views across the gulf. It’s not spectacular, but it’s quiet and feels miles away from the cruise-ship crowds.

If you’re keen on beaches, La Spezia itself doesn’t have great ones, but there are secret beaches near La Spezia that locals use. Most require a short bus or car ride, though, so they’re better for a longer stay. If you do head to a beach, bring a quick-dry travel towel and pack your phone in a waterproof pouch to keep it safe near the water.

Optional: A Quick Cinque Terre Stop or Side Trip

If you do want a taste of the Cinque Terre without committing to a full day, you can hop on the Cinque Terre Express train from La Spezia Centrale to Riomaggiore or Manarola. Trains run roughly every 20 minutes during the main season (mid-March to early November) and take about 10 minutes to Riomaggiore. A single ticket is around €5. If you’re doing multiple stops, a Cinque Terre Card (Treno MS Card) gives you unlimited train travel for the day, plus trail access if any paths are open.

The catch: the villages are packed during cruise-ship hours. If your ship docks alongside three others, expect crowds. Riomaggiore is the closest and easiest for a quick photo stop. Manarola is slightly quieter and has that famous colourful-houses-on-the-cliff view everyone posts on Instagram. Budget at least 3-4 hours round trip if you want to see even one village properly, including travel time and the walk from your ship to the train station.

The Via dell’Amore (Path of Love) between Riomaggiore and Manarola has reopened recently, but it now has timed entry slots and a small entrance fee to manage crowds. Check the current rules before you go.

Alternatively, a day trip from La Spezia to Portofino is possible if you’re willing to spend more time on trains and buses, though it’s a stretch for a single port day unless your ship stays late.

Late Afternoon: Piazza Garibaldi and Aperitivo

By late afternoon, head to Piazza Garibaldi, the main square in the old town. It’s nothing fancy – a few cafes, some trees, a bit of architectural charm – but it’s a good spot to sit with an aperitivo and watch the town wind down. Order a Spritz or a glass of local white wine (Vermentino or Cinque Terre DOC) and they’ll usually bring out some olives, crisps, or small bites.

If you’re still hungry, grab a slice of focaccia or a panino from one of the bakeries nearby. Focaccia in Liguria is an art form – thicker and oilier than you might expect, sometimes topped with onions or olives. It’s cheap, filling, and excellent.

What About Shopping?

La Spezia isn’t a shopping destination, but if you want souvenirs that aren’t cruise-ship tat, look for:

  • Pesto: Jars of Genovese pesto or pesto ingredients (pine nuts, Ligurian olive oil). Food shops along Via del Prione stock decent brands.
  • Olive oil: Ligurian olive oil is lighter and more delicate than Tuscan varieties. Buy a small bottle from a market stall or deli.
  • Local wines: Vermentino or Cinque Terre DOC white wines are good and travel well if packed carefully.
  • Anchovies: Tins or jars of marinated anchovies are a local thing and pack easily in luggage.

Avoid the souvenir shops near the port selling “Italian” goods made in China. If it’s got a giant “Cinque Terre” logo and costs €2, it’s not authentic.

Timing and Practical Tips

Most cruise ships give you around 8-10 hours in La Spezia. Here’s a rough schedule that works:

Time Activity
8:00-9:00 AM Debark, walk or taxi to Via del Prione
9:00-10:30 AM Market browsing, focaccia breakfast, wander side streets
10:30 AM-12:00 PM Castello San Giorgio or Naval Museum (optional)
12:30-2:00 PM Lunch at a local trattoria
2:00-4:00 PM Seafront promenade, public gardens, or quick Cinque Terre stop
4:00-5:30 PM Piazza Garibaldi, aperitivo, final stroll
5:30-6:00 PM Return to ship (adjust based on all-aboard time)

Key tips:

  • Cash: Bring euros. Smaller cafes and market stalls don’t always take cards.
  • Shoes: Comfortable walking shoes. The streets are cobbled and uneven in places, and if you go up to the castle, there are stairs. Proper walking shoes will save your feet.
  • Train station location: If you’re thinking of doing any train trips, know that La Spezia Centrale is about a 25-30 minute walk from the cruise terminal. Factor that into your timing. More details on getting from the port to La Spezia train station are available if you need them.
  • All-aboard time: Don’t cut it fine. Aim to be back at the ship at least 30-45 minutes before all-aboard, especially if you’ve been out of town. Train delays happen.
  • Weather: Coastal weather can change quickly. Bring a lightweight jacket even if it’s sunny when you leave the ship, or keep a packable rain jacket in your day bag just in case.
  • Phone charging: Long days exploring mean your phone battery will drain fast with photos and maps. A compact portable charger that includes cables is worth tossing in your bag.
  • Power adapters: If you need to charge devices at a cafe or in your cabin, make sure you have a European plug adapter.

Want to know more about the port layout, shuttle services, and terminal facilities? Check out this detailed La Spezia cruise ship port guide for everything you need before you even step off the gangway.

Livorno Comparison

If you’re also stopping in Livorno on the same cruise, the two ports have a similar vibe – working port cities that don’t rely on tourism. Livorno has the canals and the Venezia Nuova quarter, which are worth a look if you skip Florence. Both cities reward slow exploration and eating well over ticking off major sights. For ideas on what to do in the Livorno port area, the approach is much the same: skip the obvious day trips if you want a more relaxed day.

Extend Your Stay in La Spezia

If you’re thinking about arriving a day early or staying after your cruise, La Spezia makes a decent base. Hotels in La Spezia are cheaper than in the Cinque Terre villages and you get more choice – everything from budget chains near the station to small boutique places in the old town. Accommodation here also means you’re not hauling luggage up narrow village stairs or dealing with limited facilities.

Staying an extra day gives you time to do a proper Cinque Terre hike without the time pressure, or to take a boat trip across to Portovenere, which is less crowded and arguably prettier than some of the more famous villages. You can also explore Lerici or San Terenzo along the coast – both are quieter and have actual beaches. The train connections make it easy to day-trip in multiple directions, and you’re eating and sleeping at local prices rather than tourist-village rates.

If you’re extending your stay, pack smart with compression packing cubes to maximize luggage space, and bring a hanging toiletry organizer for your hotel bathroom. A compact travel steamer is also handy if you need to freshen up clothes after days in a suitcase.

Personal Experience

We had about eight hours in La Spezia between our cruise ship docking and the all-aboard call, and honestly, skipping the Cinque Terre crowds turned out to be the best decision. We started at Via del Prione around 9 AM when the market was in full swing – locals buying vegetables, cheese vendors offering samples, and this one stall selling fresh focaccia that was still warm. We grabbed a couple of pieces and just wandered through the narrow streets off the main drag, which felt way more authentic than fighting for space on a coastal trail with a thousand other tourists.

For lunch, we found this spot called Trattoria da Memi near the Arsenal – no English menu, just a chalkboard with the day’s specials and an owner who barely spoke English but made sure we understood what we were eating. The seafood pasta was ridiculously good and cost less than the mediocre sandwich I’d bought on the ship the day before. Afterward, we walked along the seafront promenade down to the public gardens, found a bench, and just sat there watching the locals go about their day. Sure, the Cinque Terre villages are stunning in photos, but there’s something satisfying about spending a port day where you’re not rushed, not herded, and actually get a sense of how people live there.

Common Questions & FAQ

Do I need to book train tickets to Cinque Terre in advance?

No. The Cinque Terre Express trains run frequently – roughly every 15-30 minutes during peak season – and you can buy tickets at La Spezia Centrale station on the day. Single tickets are around €5 per leg. If you’re planning multiple village stops, a Cinque Terre Card (Treno MS Card) gives unlimited train travel for the day and can be bought at the station. Advance booking isn’t necessary and there’s no reserved seating; it’s turn up and go.

Is Via del Prione market open every day?

The market stalls along Via del Prione run Monday to Saturday mornings, usually wrapping up by early afternoon. Sunday is quiet – shops are mostly closed and there’s no market. If your ship docks on a Sunday, you’ll still find cafes and restaurants open, but the market atmosphere won’t be there.

Can I walk from the cruise terminal to the train station?

Yes, it’s about 25-30 minutes on foot from the main cruise terminal area to La Spezia Centrale station. The route is flat and straightforward – follow the waterfront road towards the town centre, then head inland towards the station. If you’re short on time or carrying bags, a taxi costs around €10-15 and takes about 10 minutes. If you’re carrying valuables while walking, consider using an anti-theft crossbody bag to keep your essentials secure.

Are restaurants near the port overpriced?

The immediate waterfront near the cruise terminal has a few cafes that charge tourist prices, but once you walk five minutes inland towards Via del Prione or the old town around Piazza Garibaldi, prices drop to normal local levels. A pasta dish should cost €10-15, not €20+. If a menu has photos and five languages, keep walking.

What’s the best Cinque Terre village for a short visit?

Riomaggiore is the closest – about 10 minutes by train from La Spezia – and has the classic colourful houses and harbour. Manarola is the next stop and slightly quieter with good photo opportunities. If you only have 2-3 hours total, pick one and stick with it rather than trying to hop between multiple villages. The villages are small; you can see Riomaggiore properly in about an hour.

Is the Via dell’Amore path open?

The Via dell’Amore between Riomaggiore and Manarola has reopened recently after years of closure, but it now operates with timed entry slots and a small entrance fee to control crowds. You need to book a time slot in advance during busy periods. Check the official Cinque Terre park website or ask at La Spezia Centrale station for current access rules before planning a walk.

Do I need euros or can I use a card everywhere?

Bring cash. Most restaurants and shops in the town centre take cards, but market stalls, small cafes, and bakeries often don’t. ATMs are available near the port and along Via del Prione. Having €40-50 in small notes and coins will cover focaccia, market purchases, and a coffee without any hassle.

How much time should I allow to get back to the ship?

If you’re staying in La Spezia town, 20-30 minutes is enough. If you’re coming back from Cinque Terre by train, allow at least an hour to cover the train journey, the walk from the station to the port, and any queues at security. Trains can be delayed or crowded, especially late afternoon when everyone’s heading back. Don’t assume the last train will be on time.