When Pasta Turned Me Into a Local in La Spezia
Stops like La Spezia—the charming Italian port town tucked along the Ligurian coast—are why I still get excited every time I hear the ship’s gangway clang down. I remember one summer morning, after disembarking from a cruise that had more selfies than steps on my pedometer, I wandered into a small trattoria down a cobbled alley just off Via del Prione. No crowds, no menus in English—just the scent of garlic hitting olive oil like Sinatra hitting a high note.
The owner, Gianni, sized me up immediately—not with suspicion, but with that blend of hospitality and subtle challenge that comes from years of feeding tourists who wouldn’t know fresh pesto if it danced a tarantella on their heads. I ordered a plate of trofie al pesto and something magical happened: I stopped being a visitor and started eating like a local.
That’s the bliss of La Spezia—not just a gateway to Cinque Terre, but a proud culinary corner of Liguria where recipes are treasured like family heirlooms. And today, I’m sharing the five dishes you need to order (or hunt down on your next cruise stop) if you want to eat like you’ve lived here all your life.
1. Trofie al Pesto
This isn’t the pesto you find in grocery store jars with suspicious shelf lives. La Spezia’s trofie—short, twisted pasta—is perfectly shaped to hug every drop of freshly made Ligurian pesto. We’re talking basil so fresh it practically still hums photosynthesis, pine nuts, garlic, Parmigiano-Reggiano, and that peppery green-gold Ligurian olive oil.
Insider Tip: In La Spezia, locals add fagiolini (green beans) and patate (potatoes) right into the pasta water. Sounds odd, tastes genius. Let your waiter know you want it “come la nonna”—like grandma makes it. They’ll know.
Heads up: Some cruise excursions take folks straight to Cinque Terre and miss La Spezia entirely. If you have free time in port, skip the organized tour and find a backstreet trattoria. You’ll be rewarded with a pesto epiphany.
2. Mesciua — The Humble Bowl That Could
Think beans are boring? Not here. Mesciua (meh-SHOO-ah) is a warm, comforting soup made from chickpeas, Cannellini beans, and farro. It’s to La Spezia what clam chowder is to Boston—just without the touristy hype.
Why you’ll love it: It’s protein-packed, vegetarian, and has that old-world simplicity that makes you feel virtuous for eating it—right before you have gelato for dessert.
Bonus Tip: Ask for it with a drizzle of “olio nuovo”—fresh new-season olive oil. Most locals keep a little bottle on hand like it’s a secret love affair.
3. Acciughe al Verde — Anchovies, but Make it Sexy
Anchovies get a bad rap outside Italy, mostly because Americans have suffered through pizza-topping trauma. But in La Spezia, fresh anchovies marinated in parsley, garlic, olive oil, and vinegar are a revelation—rich, tangy, and shockingly addictive.
Fun Fact: Locals snack on these with bread and red wine at 11am. Yes, 11am. Because in La Spezia, anchovies are brunch, baby.
Avoiding fish? This might not be your jam, but give it a nibble—they’re nothing like the salty little shoe-leathers you might expect. These are delicate bites of umami joy.
4. Torta di Riso — Rice Pie: A Dish with an Identity Crisis
This savory-sweet pie toes the line between dinner and dessert. Made with cooked rice, eggs, cheese, and sometimes a little sugar or nutmeg, it’s as confusing as it is delicious.
Where to find it: Local bakeries and open-air markets sell slices wrapped in paper. Perfect picnic material while watching ferries glide through the Gulf of Poets.
Warning: Don’t try to put it in a toaster oven unless you want to explain a lot to your cabin steward.
5. Farinata — Pancakes Meet Street Food Magic
Picture a golden, slightly crispy chickpea pancake, sliced like pizza and served piping hot. Farinata is the unsung hero of Ligurian street snacks. Crunchy on the outside, creamy on the inside, and made with just chickpea flour, water, olive oil, and salt.
Where to score it: Look for wood-fired ovens or narrow-windowed bakeries with lines of locals. If there’s a line, you’re in the right place.
Eat it on a bench near the port, watch the seagulls, and revel in the knowledge that you’ve officially leveled up from “cruise passenger” to “foodie-in-the-know.”
Getting the Most from Your Port Day
Understand La Spezia: This is a working town, not a theme park, and that’s exactly why it’s special. Don’t skip it just because it’s not Cinque Terre. The town has charm, naval history, and a sense of real life.
Best time to eat: Locals lunch between 12:30 and 2:30. Show up earlier and you’ll get tourist menus, show up later and you’ll get locked doors. Timing is everything.
Ask for the “piatto del giorno”—daily specials often include off-menu gems the chef made just because the ingredients were too good to skip.
Bonus Tips
- Pack elastic-waist pants. You’ll thank me around 3 p.m.
- Look out for fried sage leaves—salvia fritta—offered at markets. They melt in your mouth.
- Some restaurants give free grappa after your meal. Accept it graciously, no matter how your stomach feels. It’s a rite of passage.
Final Thoughts from the Deck
La Spezia may not roll off the tongue like Rome or Florence, but if you’re willing to savor rather than selfie, you’ll discover a slice of Italy that still cooks with soul—and pesto.
Food has a funny way of making places memorable. Every bite tells a story, anchors a memory, connects you to people who were strangers 15 minutes ago but are now waving at you with wine-stained smiles. So next time your cruise drops anchor in La Spezia, skip the obvious…and follow your nose (and this list) to real, unforgettable flavor.
Because darling, if your passport says “Italy” but your plate doesn’t? You’re only halfway there.
