And How to Eat Like a Gondolier (Without Falling Into a Canal)
The Day I Fell in Love with VeniceāOne Bite at a Time
It was my third Mediterranean cruiseāsomewhere between discovering the best gelato in Amalfi and scouring Corfu for a lost flip-flopāwhen I stumbled into a dimly-lit corner bar in Venice, led by the unmistakable smell of grilled octopus and fried polenta. I was half-lost, fully hungry, and swore I heard a gondolier humming āThatās Amoreā around the corner.
There was no menu, no white tablecloths, just a bustling counter filled with finger-sized delightsāanchovies marinated in vinegar, zucchini blossoms, and warm baccalĆ mantecato (a heavenly whipped codfish spread). This, my sea-loving friend, was my first dive into cicchettiāVeniceās answer to tapas, or as I affectionately call it now: lagoon-side snacking bliss.
That chance encounter at a tiny bar called Alla Vedova changed how I explore Venice foreverāand now, Iām sharing these gems with you.
So put down the soggy pizza slice near San Marco, and letās get deliciously lost in the calli together.
What Even Are Cicchetti, Anyway?
If youāve never heard of themādonāt worry, youāre not alone. Even seasoned cruisers sometimes skip over this essential Venetian tradition in favor of heavy sit-down meals.
But authentic cicchetti (pronounced chi-KET-tee) are bite-sized dishes served at bacari (small, informal wine bars). Locals pop in for a quick glass of ombra (a small pour of local wine) and a snack, often standing or leaning against the bar while exchanging some rapid-fire Venetian dialect.
And trust meāitās way more fun (and budget-friendly) than sitting in a touristy trattoria facing a ā¬28 bowl of spaghetti.
So here they areāeight spots that Venetians actually go to, served with spicy local flavor and a splash of insider tips.
1. Cantina Do Spade
š San Polo – Google map location
If walls could whisper, Do Spade would spill centuries of gossip and wine-soaked secrets. Hidden in a narrow alley near the Rialto Market, this standout bar has reportedly been operating since the Middle Agesāand you get the sense it hasnāt changed much.
What to try: Grilled squid skewers and the classic sarde in saor (Venetian sweet-and-sour sardines). Try them with a chilled glass of Soave.
š” Cruise Insider Tip: If your ship docks early (lucky you), this is the perfect first stop before the day-trippers arrive. It opens mid-morningāa rare gem for early birds with an appetite.
2. Alla Vedova
š Cannaregio – Google map location
This was my first cicchetti love. Tucked away on a quiet side street, Alla Vedova dazzles with its legendary meatballsāI mean it. Even lifelong Venetians will duel for them.
What to try: The polpette (those meatballs!), eggplant caponata, and if you’re feeling boldāsquid ink on toast.
𤣠Local Chuckle: The Venetian nickname for this place is The Widowās, though a āvedovaā hasnāt greeted diners in well over a century.
3. Cantina Arnaldi
š Santa Croce – Google map location
Off the classic pub crawl radar, Arnaldi offers modern takes on traditional cicchetti with a focus on natural wines and craft beerāsomething rare in this centuries-old wine-loving city.
What to try: Try the smoked salmon crostino with horseradish cream or their tramezzini (Venetian triangular sandwiches).
š· Bonus Tip: Ask for āorange wine.ā Venetians love this funky, skin-contact vino and itās unlike anything on your cruise buffet.
4. Al Timon
š Fondamenta Ormesini, Cannaregio – Google map location
Dreaming of sipping wine while watching gondolas glide by with zero tourist frills? This is it. Al Timon is beloved for their mini steak crostini and boatside seatingāyes, you can sit on a moored wooden boat with your plate. Just donāt drop your spritz.
What to try: Roast beef with mustard cream crostino, and a spritz al Select for something delightfully bitter.
š§ Cruiser’s Caution: It gets packed at sunset with local university students. Go early; Venice doesnāt really ādoā happy hour, but this comes close.
5. La Bottiglia
š Dorsoduro – Google map location
Not technically a bacaro, but hear me out: This cool, hole-in-the-wall wine shop delivers excellent cicchetti and artisan paninetti (little sandwiches). Think speck and truffle cream combos that will haunt your foodie dreams.
What to try: Mortadella with pistachio cream, or gorgonzola with pear.
š„Ŗ Hack for Cruise-Goers: Grab a few to go and picnic on the Zattere promenade. Itās the Venetian version of room service with a view.
6. Antica Osteria Ruga Rialto
š San Polo – Google map location
Lesser known to travelers but frequented by Rialto market workers, this osteria keeps things wonderfully rustic. Think old wooden beams, gruff waiters with hearts of gold, and anchovies that will make you weep with joy.
What to try: Fried zucchini flowers, octopus salad, and a glass of Raboso, a red wine as bold as Venice herself.
š³ Cruise Pro Tip: If youāre only in port for the day, skip the Rialto Bridge selfies and come here instead. Your taste buds will thank you.
7. Osteria Alla Ciurma
š San Polo – Google map location
Tiny and swallowed up by its surroundings, Ciurma is adored for its long counter of fresh cicchetti and no-nonsense service. Itās the kind of place where gondoliers stop in mid-shiftāsunglasses on, swagger intact.
What to try: Tuna mousse, mini croquettes, and a deep-fried artichoke that might just make you cry.
š Night Owl Bonus: Itās a great early evening stop before catching the waterbus (vaporetto) backāyou can even bring a glass on your ride.
8. Bacareto Da Lele
š Near Piazzale Roma – Google map location
If you’re arriving or departing by train or cruise shuttle, this stop is a must. Tiny, crowded, chaoticāexactly right. Known for its ā¬1-to-ā¬1.50 miniature paninis and pouring ombra like itās going out of style.
What to try: Salami and gorgonzola sandwichāand a local white, of course.
š¢Cruiserās Lifesaver: Perfect for a quick bite before jumping on your water taxi. It’s also one of the cheapest meals youāll find in Venice⦠unless you count the free peanuts onboard.
Parting Thoughts from Venice
So there you have itāeight cicchetti bars that beat the pants off overpriced tourist traps. But let me leave you with this: Venice isnāt a checklist, itās a feeling. And nothing makes you feel more part of this floating city than standing at a bar, swirling a glass of wine, munching on a tiny sandwich, and swapping nods with a gondolier.
Embrace the unpredictability. Wander without maps. Get purposefully lost. And always say yes to another crostino.
Bon voyage and buon appetito, my swashbuckling snackers!
š Bonus Tips You Didnāt Know You Needed:
Skip the Spritz Campari. Ask for a “Spritz al Select” insteadāthis hyper-local bitter aperitif was born in Venice and outranks even Aperol in authenticity.
Duck into side streets near the big sights. Some of the best bacari are within a stoneās throw of the Grand Canal, but hidden in plain sight.
Learn basic lingo: āUnāombra e due cicchetti, per favoreā is the golden phrase. It means āone small glass of wine and two snacks, please.ā Say it with confidenceāeven if you butcher it.
Avoid sit-down restaurants near major landmarks during lunchtime unless you fancy paying ā¬12 for a Coke. Cicchetti bars are faster, cheaper, better.
See you at the bar. Iāll be the one balancing sardines on polenta and smiling like I just discovered Venice for the first timeāagain.