And How to Eat Like a Gondolier (Without Falling Into a Canal)
The Day I Fell in Love with VeniceâOne Bite at a Time
It was my third Mediterranean cruiseâsomewhere between discovering the best gelato in Amalfi and scouring Corfu for a lost flip-flopâwhen I stumbled into a dimly-lit corner bar in Venice, led by the unmistakable smell of grilled octopus and fried polenta. I was half-lost, fully hungry, and swore I heard a gondolier humming âThatâs Amoreâ around the corner.
There was no menu, no white tablecloths, just a bustling counter filled with finger-sized delightsâanchovies marinated in vinegar, zucchini blossoms, and warm baccalĂ mantecato (a heavenly whipped codfish spread). This, my sea-loving friend, was my first dive into cicchettiâVeniceâs answer to tapas, or as I affectionately call it now: lagoon-side snacking bliss.
That chance encounter at a tiny bar called Alla Vedova changed how I explore Venice foreverâand now, Iâm sharing these gems with you.
So put down the soggy pizza slice near San Marco, and letâs get deliciously lost in the calli together.
What Even Are Cicchetti, Anyway?
If youâve never heard of themâdonât worry, youâre not alone. Even seasoned cruisers sometimes skip over this essential Venetian tradition in favor of heavy sit-down meals.
But authentic cicchetti (pronounced chi-KET-tee) are bite-sized dishes served at bacari (small, informal wine bars). Locals pop in for a quick glass of ombra (a small pour of local wine) and a snack, often standing or leaning against the bar while exchanging some rapid-fire Venetian dialect.
And trust meâitâs way more fun (and budget-friendly) than sitting in a touristy trattoria facing a âŹ28 bowl of spaghetti.
So here they areâeight spots that Venetians actually go to, served with spicy local flavor and a splash of insider tips.
1. Cantina Do Spade
đ San Polo – Google map location
If walls could whisper, Do Spade would spill centuries of gossip and wine-soaked secrets. Hidden in a narrow alley near the Rialto Market, this standout bar has reportedly been operating since the Middle Agesâand you get the sense it hasnât changed much.
What to try: Grilled squid skewers and the classic sarde in saor (Venetian sweet-and-sour sardines). Try them with a chilled glass of Soave.
đĄ Cruise Insider Tip: If your ship docks early (lucky you), this is the perfect first stop before the day-trippers arrive. It opens mid-morningâa rare gem for early birds with an appetite.
2. Alla Vedova
đ Cannaregio – Google map location
This was my first cicchetti love. Tucked away on a quiet side street, Alla Vedova dazzles with its legendary meatballsâI mean it. Even lifelong Venetians will duel for them.
What to try: The polpette (those meatballs!), eggplant caponata, and if you’re feeling boldâsquid ink on toast.
𤣠Local Chuckle: The Venetian nickname for this place is The Widowâs, though a âvedovaâ hasnât greeted diners in well over a century.
3. Cantina Arnaldi
đ Santa Croce – Google map location
Off the classic pub crawl radar, Arnaldi offers modern takes on traditional cicchetti with a focus on natural wines and craft beerâsomething rare in this centuries-old wine-loving city.
What to try: Try the smoked salmon crostino with horseradish cream or their tramezzini (Venetian triangular sandwiches).
đˇ Bonus Tip: Ask for âorange wine.â Venetians love this funky, skin-contact vino and itâs unlike anything on your cruise buffet.
4. Al Timon
đ Fondamenta Ormesini, Cannaregio – Google map location
Dreaming of sipping wine while watching gondolas glide by with zero tourist frills? This is it. Al Timon is beloved for their mini steak crostini and boatside seatingâyes, you can sit on a moored wooden boat with your plate. Just donât drop your spritz.
What to try: Roast beef with mustard cream crostino, and a spritz al Select for something delightfully bitter.
đ§ Cruiser’s Caution: It gets packed at sunset with local university students. Go early; Venice doesnât really âdoâ happy hour, but this comes close.
5. La Bottiglia
đ Dorsoduro – Google map location
Not technically a bacaro, but hear me out: This cool, hole-in-the-wall wine shop delivers excellent cicchetti and artisan paninetti (little sandwiches). Think speck and truffle cream combos that will haunt your foodie dreams.
What to try: Mortadella with pistachio cream, or gorgonzola with pear.
𼪠Hack for Cruise-Goers: Grab a few to go and picnic on the Zattere promenade. Itâs the Venetian version of room service with a view.
6. Antica Osteria Ruga Rialto
đ San Polo – Google map location
Lesser known to travelers but frequented by Rialto market workers, this osteria keeps things wonderfully rustic. Think old wooden beams, gruff waiters with hearts of gold, and anchovies that will make you weep with joy.
What to try: Fried zucchini flowers, octopus salad, and a glass of Raboso, a red wine as bold as Venice herself.
đł Cruise Pro Tip: If youâre only in port for the day, skip the Rialto Bridge selfies and come here instead. Your taste buds will thank you.
7. Osteria Alla Ciurma
đ San Polo – Google map location
Tiny and swallowed up by its surroundings, Ciurma is adored for its long counter of fresh cicchetti and no-nonsense service. Itâs the kind of place where gondoliers stop in mid-shiftâsunglasses on, swagger intact.
What to try: Tuna mousse, mini croquettes, and a deep-fried artichoke that might just make you cry.
đ Night Owl Bonus: Itâs a great early evening stop before catching the waterbus (vaporetto) backâyou can even bring a glass on your ride.
8. Bacareto Da Lele
đ Near Piazzale Roma – Google map location
If you’re arriving or departing by train or cruise shuttle, this stop is a must. Tiny, crowded, chaoticâexactly right. Known for its âŹ1-to-âŹ1.50 miniature paninis and pouring ombra like itâs going out of style.
What to try: Salami and gorgonzola sandwichâand a local white, of course.
đ˘Cruiserâs Lifesaver: Perfect for a quick bite before jumping on your water taxi. It’s also one of the cheapest meals youâll find in Venice⌠unless you count the free peanuts onboard.
Parting Thoughts from Venice
So there you have itâeight cicchetti bars that beat the pants off overpriced tourist traps. But let me leave you with this: Venice isnât a checklist, itâs a feeling. And nothing makes you feel more part of this floating city than standing at a bar, swirling a glass of wine, munching on a tiny sandwich, and swapping nods with a gondolier.
Embrace the unpredictability. Wander without maps. Get purposefully lost. And always say yes to another crostino.
Bon voyage and buon appetito, my swashbuckling snackers!
đ Bonus Tips You Didnât Know You Needed:
Skip the Spritz Campari. Ask for a “Spritz al Select” insteadâthis hyper-local bitter aperitif was born in Venice and outranks even Aperol in authenticity.
Duck into side streets near the big sights. Some of the best bacari are within a stoneâs throw of the Grand Canal, but hidden in plain sight.
Learn basic lingo:Â âUnâombra e due cicchetti, per favoreâ is the golden phrase. It means âone small glass of wine and two snacks, please.â Say it with confidenceâeven if you butcher it.
Avoid sit-down restaurants near major landmarks during lunchtime unless you fancy paying âŹ12 for a Coke. Cicchetti bars are faster, cheaper, better.
See you at the bar. Iâll be the one balancing sardines on polenta and smiling like I just discovered Venice for the first timeâagain.