It was my fourth time anchoring off the Ligurian coast, and I could already smell the rosemary, salt air, and inevitable cappuccino. But as our tender pulled up to Riomaggiore—Cinque Terre’s easternmost village—I braced myself. I’d seen it before: the photo-snapping crowds, the clamor of tourist chatter echoing through medieval alleys, and the line (yes, a line!) for gelato. But this time, like a seasoned spaghetti-slurping sherpa, I was on a mission: to dodge the crowds and have Riomaggiore to myself. Well, almost.
1. Wake Up Before the Town Does
Here’s the golden rule: beat the buses. Most cruise excursions spill into Riomaggiore between 10 a.m. and noon. If you’re tendering early or staying nearby overnight, head into town before 9 a.m. You’ll have the painted pastel streets—and that iconic harbor view—to yourself and a few sleepy fishermen.
Insider tip: The best sunrise spot? Climb the east side of the marina and perch near the pale orange house with the green shutters. Thank me later (preferably over limoncello).
2. Skip the Queue, Sip the Wine
Everyone’s lining up at Nessun Dorma for a bruschetta board and selfie. Instead, duck into A Pie de Ma, a tucked-away wine bar built into the cliffside. It’s where locals go to hide from tourists. The views? Still jaw-dropping. The vibe? Silent symphony. Order a glass of Sciacchetrà (the region’s sweet dessert wine) and watch the sea flirt with the rocks below.
3. Explore the Hidden Tunnel Murals
Most visitors march through Riomaggiore’s pedestrian tunnel like ants in hiking boots. Pause. You’ll notice stunning mosaic murals celebrating Ligurian fishermen and local legends. These colorful artworks are easily missed if you’re in a rush—but they tell the story of a village more poetic than postcard-worthy.
4. Ditch the Shuttle, Hike the Goat Path
If you’re feeling adventurous (and didn’t bring impractical cruise shoes—I’m looking at you, wedge-heel wearers), skip the Via dell’Amore and walk the trail up to the Santuario di Nostra Signora di Montenero. The incline’s steep, yes. But the reward? Panoramic views of all five Cinque Terre villages without a soul around.
Bonus tip: Pack water, sunscreen, and humility. The trail was built by goats. They didn’t believe in switchbacks.
5. Snack Like a Ligurian (Not a Tourist)
While everyone else is forking into overhyped pasta plates, head to the small bakery by the church steps—Panificio Rosi—and grab a focaccina dripping in olive oil. Better yet, do it with a slice of anchovy pie. It’s a Ligurian staple, and trust me, they do anchovies better than your uncle Tony at Christmas dinner.
6. Talk to the Locals (Really Talk)
It’s easy to breeze through Riomaggiore treating locals like background scenery. Don’t. Buy fruit from the old man on Via Colombo who hums opera. Compliment the shopkeeper’s lemons. Ask how their grape harvest was. You’ll walk away with more than stories—you’ll leave with a connection.
Pro tip: Learn a few Italian phrases. “Bellissimo!” and “Che profumo!” go a long way, even if you’re talking about bread.
7. Find the Secret Beach (Shh!)
While the main harbor fills with swimmers and iPhones, there’s a hidden spot just past the marina. Follow the trail by the rocks beyond the ferry pier and you’ll discover a secluded pebble cove. No changing rooms. No Wi-Fi. Just sea, stone, and bliss.
Caution: The rocks can be slippery. Wear sturdy shoes and channel your inner agile octopus.
8. Visit the Cemetery with a View
Okay, hear me out. Climb the hill past the village into the cemetery overlooking the sea. Italians build tombs like Renaissance architects, and the hilltop silence offers the most peaceful, panoramic view in Riomaggiore. Morbid? Maybe. Magical? Always.
Bonus Tips from a Cruise Insider
- Take the train early: The Cinque Terre Express can get crowded, but the first few runs after 7 a.m. are generally calm, and conductors are still on their first espresso.
- Buy your Cinque Terre Card ahead of time: It gets you hiking trail access and unlimited train hops between villages. You can grab it online or at the La Spezia cruise terminal kiosk.
- Skip gelato on the main drag: Instead, look for the hole-in-the-wall called Prana. They make their fruit gelato with fresh ingredients from their backyard garden. It’s sorcery.
What to Watch Out For
Let’s not sugarcoat it—Riomaggiore can be overwhelming when it’s swarmed with cruise excursions. Narrow alleys, steep stairs, and heat waves don’t mix well with humid SPF sweat and hangry tourists. Flat shoes are a must (the cobblestones will chew up stilettos faster than a dolphin eats anchovies), and if you’re mobility-impaired, stick to the waterfront rather than attempting uphill explorations.
Leaving with (More than) a Postcard
Here’s the thing about Riomaggiore: it’s not just a pretty painting clinging to a cliff. It’s a living, breathing town with soul—and soul takes time to notice. When you duck the crowds, talk to locals, and follow the alleyways most travelers miss, you don’t just visit Cinque Terre—you feel it. You taste wind in your wine. You adopt a slower heartbeat. You remember that travel isn’t about ticking boxes—it’s about flirting with the unfamiliar, in the most beautiful of places.
So next time your cruise stops in La Spezia or one of her salty sisters, take a detour into the hidden heart of Riomaggiore. She’s more than her Instagram angle—she’s an old soul waiting for your attention. Preferably before noon.
