The first time I swam in Cinque Terre, I was 53 years old, flailing like a caffeinated seal off a rocky ledge near Riomaggiore. I wasnât trying to make a splashâjust escape the July heat and the bustling sidewalks clogged with selfie-sticked tourists. As I floated on my back, gazing up at cliffs that looked as if they were painted by the Almighty after a glass of wine, I had a revelation: the real magic of Cinque Terre isnât on the postcardsâitâs in the water. Now, after decades of cruising and countless dips across the globe, let me share six of my most beloved, secret swim spots in this Italian dreamland.
1. Canneto Beach â Corniglia’s Hidden Cove
Nestled beneath the cliffs of Corniglia lies Canneto Beach, accessible only by boat or a very ambitious (and frankly, calf-killing) cliffside hike. Most cruise day-trippers wonât even know it existsâand thatâs exactly why it stays gloriously uncrowded.
- Insider Tip: Hire a local fisherman in Vernazza to take you there. They know the waters like the back of their weathered hands and often share colorful stories along the way.
- Know This: Bring water shoes. The beach is more pebble than powder, but the payoff is privacy and pristine aquamarine water.
2. The âBlue Holeâ Below Manarola
No, itâs not marked on maps. Locals call it âIl Buco Azzurroââa hidden sea cave tucked just below the main promenade in Manarola. At low tide, if you’re feeling bold (and decently agile), climb down the rocks near the boat ramp and plunge into this natural swimming chamber.
- Warning: This is not grandmaâs beach. Thereâs a bit of scrambling and itâs best attempted with reef-safe water shoes and a buddy.
- Cruise-Friendly Hack: Go early in the morning, before the ferries start unloading passengers. Itâs just you, the cave, and the echo of waves.
3. Vernazzaâs Secret Slip
Just past the main harbor, where tourists sip Aperol like itâs going out of style, thereâs a skinny trail that winds behind the church of Santa Margherita. Follow it for 3 minutes and youâll discover a narrow rock ledgeâa favorite among local teensâwhere you can slip into deep, inky-blue water undisturbed.
- Pro Tip: Bring a dry bag with your essentials. There’s no place to stash things unless you’re cool with a seagull rifling through your cruise ID.
4. The Wild Swells of Guvano Beach
Guvano is the rebel of the Cinque Terre beaches. Once a legendary nudist haven during the â60s, today itâs a semi-abandoned stretch of dark pebbles between Corniglia and Vernazza. Getting there involves a slightly spooky walk through an old railway tunnel that feels like a set from an Italian Hitchcock film. Worth it? Highly.
- What You Didn’t Know: The tunnel has technically been closed for years, but the adventurous still find their way. Ask a local bartenderâthey may just nudge you in the right directionâŚfiguratively and literally.
- Best Time: Late afternoon, when the light hits the cliffs just so and you’ll feel like you’ve stepped into an art film. Clothing optional, curiosity encouraged.
5. The Swimming Hole near Monterossoâs Giant
Monterosso is known for its spacious (read: packed) beaches, but veer left from the train station toward the looming Neptune statueâknown as “Il Gigante”âand youâll find a rocky dive spot just below his feet. Fewer crowds, more local flair.
- Bonus: Swim here and you can claim you took a dip beneath the feet of a Roman god. Just donât challenge him to a cannonball contest.
6. Palmaria Island Across from Portovenere
Okay, okayâtechnically not part of the âfive lands,â but listen: Portovenere is often skipped by big cruise lines and quietly sits just beyond Riomaggiore. Take a short ferry to Palmaria Island, a lush outpost with hidden coves, turquoise water, and zero crowds.
- Why Itâs Special: It offers the raw, rugged beauty of Cinque Terre without the selfie sticks or soggy paninis.
- Access Tip: If your cruise docks in La Spezia, this is an easy pre-lunch adventure. Bonus points for packing focaccia and eating it with saltwater in your hair.
What Cruise-Goers Should Know
- Wear Your Suit Under Your Clothes: Changing facilities are…well, letâs say ârusticâ at best. Embrace your inner MacGyver.
- Pack a Small Dry Bag: Perfect for your phone, sunscreen, and that chocolate cornetto you told yourself you wouldnât eatâagain.
- Time Your Visit: Aim to swim early in the day before cruise crowds and sunstroke arrive in full force.
- Respect the Land and Sea: Donât dive where locals donât dive. Take your trash with you. And for the love of limoncello, donât touch the sea urchins. They’re not as cuddly as they look.
The Ups and Downs of the Cinque Terraqueous Life
Pros: The water is sultry, sapphire, and deliciously clear. The scenery is âset-as-a-desktop-backgroundâ stunning. And the gelato waiting for you post-swim? Divine. Cons: Getting to these sites can be challenging for those with mobility issues, and cruise schedules donât always allow time to dawdle. Use port days wisely, and donât bite off more trail than you can chewâor hike, for that matter.
Final Splash
Cinque Terre may be famous for rainbow-hued villages tumbling into the Ligurian Sea, but itâs in the unmarked swims and rocky plunges where the real magic happens. Sometimes the best memories arenât made in curated tours or port selfiesâtheyâre born from salt-sticky hair, sun-warmed skin, and the quiet moment the sea greets you like an old friend.
Bonus Tips You Didnât Know You Needed
- Buy a âŹ1 inflatable floaty: Locals may roll their eyes, but youâll glide like a Mediterranean mermaid.
- Portable Snorkel Mask: This coastline is teeming with fish, ancient rocks, and, if youâre lucky, forgotten wine bottles of yore.
- Order a âSciacchetrĂ Slushieâ (Unofficial Name): In Vernazza, ask a bartender to turn this sweet local wine into a slushie. They may think youâre mad, but youâll be deliciously mad.
So go ahead, jump in. The secret side of Cinque Terre is waiting where the ferry canât find you and the water forgives everythingâeven that second plate of pasta.