How I Wandered into Magic (and Espresso) from La Spezia
Years agoâlong before GPS worked properly in Italy and even longer before I understood the true power of Italian coffeeâI disembarked in La Spezia with no plan and an oversized paper map. I remember the ship’s cruise director warning, âYou need a tour to see anything around here.â I politely smiled, stuffed a croissant in my purse, and wandered off like a woman on a mission. Turns out, my mission led me to the most gloriously impromptu adventure of my travel career.
I saw ancient churches, coastal views that looked Photoshopped, and ate a focaccia so good I nearly wept. I did it all without a pre-booked shore excursion. You can tooâhereâs how.
Why Go It Alone? (And Why Itâs Easier Than You Think)
La Spezia, charming in its own quiet way, is the unsung hero of port stops. While many cruise passengers rush off on group tours, savvy travelers know there are nearby towns just a train ride or scenic stroll away. No guide with a flag. No overpriced âauthenticâ lunches. Just you, your sense of curiosity, and the best rail system Italy has to offer (seriously, Trenitalia is a gift from the travel gods).
1. Riomaggiore: The Cliffside Charmer
Just 10-15 minutes by local train and youâre in another world. Riomaggiore, the first of the famed Cinque Terre villages, is an eye-popping splash of stacked sorbet-colored homes tumbling into the Ligurian Sea.
- Insider Tip: Skip the uphill battleâtake the elevator from the train station to the town center. Itâs free and saves you from arriving sweaty.
- What to Do: Meander down to the harbor, take the iconic shot of boats bobbing in the cove, and grab a cone of fried seafood from a paper cup at Il Pescato Cucinato.
Potential Challenge: Navigating the train ticket machines can feel like a Sudoku puzzle. Buy a Cinque Terre Train Card at the main La Spezia stationâit grants unlimited rides and makes you feel delightfully VIP.
2. Lerici: The Seaside Poetâs Gem
If you crave less crowd and more charm, hop on a bus or ferry to Lericiâit takes about 30 minutes and feels like youâve discovered a locals-only retreat.
- Special Fun Fact: Lord Byron wrote poetry here. So yes, bring your notebook and an air of tortured genius.
- What to Explore: Walk the harbor promenade, climb up to Castello di Lerici for some castle-staring, and savor a gelato beside sun-kissed fishing boats.
Watch Out For: Steep hills. Wear comfy shoes and pace yourselfâthis is Italy, not a race to the finish line.
3. Portovenere: The Under-the-Radar Stunner
Often overshadowed by Cinque Terre, Portovenere is the quieter, cooler cousin who doesn’t care about the spotlight. Bonusâfewer tour groups!
- Getting There: Ferries from La Spezia operate regularly from March to October. Book a round-trip right at the port.
- Why Go: Wander medieval alleys, hear romantic legends at Church of St. Peter, and take envy-inducing photos of the cliffs plunging into turquoise waters.
Bonus Tip: Head to the Byron Grotto and pretend youâre penning an ode while dangling your toes in the sea.
4. Sarzana: The Hidden Renaissance Marvel
If youâve had your fill of salty air and crave some serious architecture minus the Cinque Terre surge, catch a 20-minute train to Sarzana.
- Why You’ll Love It: This medieval town boasts two castles, cobbled streets lined with boutiques, and locals whoâll insist you try their homemade limoncino (the cousin of limoncello).
- Donât Miss: Fortezza Firmafede, a fortress you can actually climb aroundâIndiana Jones hat optional.
Insider Nugget: The town is known for its antique markets, usually held on the first weekend of the month. Bargain hard, but in Italian (or with exaggerated hand gesturesâyour choice).
5. La Spezia Itself: Donât Overlook the Underdog
Iâll say it: La Spezia deserves more love. Everyoneâs too busy speeding off to this or that hill town, but linger here and youâll be richly rewarded.
- What to Explore: The Naval Museum (Italyâs largest!), the stunning waterfront promenade, and Via del Prione, packed with cafes and boutiques.
- Fresh Find: Bar Rebacco serves espresso so potent, it doubles as jet fuel. Don’t say I didn’t warn you.
Pro Tip: For a taste of local life, head to the Mercato Coperto (covered market). Snag some fresh focaccia and cheese, then picnic by the sea like a true Ligurian.
Logistics for DIY Explorers
| Town | How to Get There | Travel Time | Best For |
|---|---|---|---|
| Riomaggiore | Train | 15 mins | Colorful coastlines, seafood cones |
| Lerici | Bus or Ferry | 30 mins | Seaside strolls, poetry vibes |
| Portovenere | Ferry | 35 mins | Dramatic cliffs, medieval charm |
| Sarzana | Train | 20 mins | Architecture, antiques |
| La Spezia | You’re already here! | 0 mins | Hidden gem, local eats |
Final Boarding Thoughts
Thereâs something deeply satisfying about stepping off a ship and forging your own path. When you skip the herd, you leave room for surpriseâlike discovering a bakery hidden behind a church, or an impromptu chat with a vineyard owner about his secret Chianti recipe (true story: it involves a touch of blackberry and a minor argument with his nonna).
The towns around La Spezia are small wonders with big personalities. Skip the guidebook and go explore. Just remember to check train timings, leave room for gelato, and for heaven’s sakeâdonât bother with a tour if you donât want to.
Bonus Tips for Cruisers
- Carry cash. Some dreamy little cafes still donât take cards. Bless them.
- Download the Trenitalia app. Itâs a lifesaver when trains change platforms like guests chasing the last buffet croissant.
- Bring a refillable water bottle. Many towns have public fountains with the crispest, coldest mountain water you’ll ever sip.
- Leave time for spontaneity. The best moments are the ones you didnât planâtrust me, I’ve missed entire shore excursions and wouldnât change a thing.
So go forth, fellow sailorâand donât let the promise of a flag-toting guide keep you from wandering into wonderful.
