How I Wandered into Magic (and Espresso) from La Spezia

Years ago—long before GPS worked properly in Italy and even longer before I understood the true power of Italian coffee—I disembarked in La Spezia with no plan and an oversized paper map. I remember the ship’s cruise director warning, “You need a tour to see anything around here.” I politely smiled, stuffed a croissant in my purse, and wandered off like a woman on a mission. Turns out, my mission led me to the most gloriously impromptu adventure of my travel career.

I saw ancient churches, coastal views that looked Photoshopped, and ate a focaccia so good I nearly wept. I did it all without a pre-booked shore excursion. You can too—here’s how.

Why Go It Alone? (And Why It’s Easier Than You Think)

La Spezia, charming in its own quiet way, is the unsung hero of port stops. While many cruise passengers rush off on group tours, savvy travelers know there are nearby towns just a train ride or scenic stroll away. No guide with a flag. No overpriced ‘authentic’ lunches. Just you, your sense of curiosity, and the best rail system Italy has to offer (seriously, Trenitalia is a gift from the travel gods).

1. Riomaggiore: The Cliffside Charmer

Just 10-15 minutes by local train and you’re in another world. Riomaggiore, the first of the famed Cinque Terre villages, is an eye-popping splash of stacked sorbet-colored homes tumbling into the Ligurian Sea.

  • Insider Tip: Skip the uphill battle—take the elevator from the train station to the town center. It’s free and saves you from arriving sweaty.
  • What to Do: Meander down to the harbor, take the iconic shot of boats bobbing in the cove, and grab a cone of fried seafood from a paper cup at Il Pescato Cucinato.

Potential Challenge: Navigating the train ticket machines can feel like a Sudoku puzzle. Buy a Cinque Terre Train Card at the main La Spezia station—it grants unlimited rides and makes you feel delightfully VIP.

2. Lerici: The Seaside Poet’s Gem

If you crave less crowd and more charm, hop on a bus or ferry to Lerici—it takes about 30 minutes and feels like you’ve discovered a locals-only retreat.

  • Special Fun Fact: Lord Byron wrote poetry here. So yes, bring your notebook and an air of tortured genius.
  • What to Explore: Walk the harbor promenade, climb up to Castello di Lerici for some castle-staring, and savor a gelato beside sun-kissed fishing boats.

Watch Out For: Steep hills. Wear comfy shoes and pace yourself—this is Italy, not a race to the finish line.

3. Portovenere: The Under-the-Radar Stunner

Often overshadowed by Cinque Terre, Portovenere is the quieter, cooler cousin who doesn’t care about the spotlight. Bonus—fewer tour groups!

  • Getting There: Ferries from La Spezia operate regularly from March to October. Book a round-trip right at the port.
  • Why Go: Wander medieval alleys, hear romantic legends at Church of St. Peter, and take envy-inducing photos of the cliffs plunging into turquoise waters.

Bonus Tip: Head to the Byron Grotto and pretend you’re penning an ode while dangling your toes in the sea.

4. Sarzana: The Hidden Renaissance Marvel

If you’ve had your fill of salty air and crave some serious architecture minus the Cinque Terre surge, catch a 20-minute train to Sarzana.

  • Why You’ll Love It: This medieval town boasts two castles, cobbled streets lined with boutiques, and locals who’ll insist you try their homemade limoncino (the cousin of limoncello).
  • Don’t Miss: Fortezza Firmafede, a fortress you can actually climb around—Indiana Jones hat optional.

Insider Nugget: The town is known for its antique markets, usually held on the first weekend of the month. Bargain hard, but in Italian (or with exaggerated hand gestures—your choice).

5. La Spezia Itself: Don’t Overlook the Underdog

I’ll say it: La Spezia deserves more love. Everyone’s too busy speeding off to this or that hill town, but linger here and you’ll be richly rewarded.

  • What to Explore: The Naval Museum (Italy’s largest!), the stunning waterfront promenade, and Via del Prione, packed with cafes and boutiques.
  • Fresh Find: Bar Rebacco serves espresso so potent, it doubles as jet fuel. Don’t say I didn’t warn you.

Pro Tip: For a taste of local life, head to the Mercato Coperto (covered market). Snag some fresh focaccia and cheese, then picnic by the sea like a true Ligurian.

Logistics for DIY Explorers

TownHow to Get ThereTravel TimeBest For
RiomaggioreTrain15 minsColorful coastlines, seafood cones
LericiBus or Ferry30 minsSeaside strolls, poetry vibes
PortovenereFerry35 minsDramatic cliffs, medieval charm
SarzanaTrain20 minsArchitecture, antiques
La SpeziaYou’re already here!0 minsHidden gem, local eats

Final Boarding Thoughts

There’s something deeply satisfying about stepping off a ship and forging your own path. When you skip the herd, you leave room for surprise—like discovering a bakery hidden behind a church, or an impromptu chat with a vineyard owner about his secret Chianti recipe (true story: it involves a touch of blackberry and a minor argument with his nonna).

The towns around La Spezia are small wonders with big personalities. Skip the guidebook and go explore. Just remember to check train timings, leave room for gelato, and for heaven’s sake—don’t bother with a tour if you don’t want to.

Bonus Tips for Cruisers

  • Carry cash. Some dreamy little cafes still don’t take cards. Bless them.
  • Download the Trenitalia app. It’s a lifesaver when trains change platforms like guests chasing the last buffet croissant.
  • Bring a refillable water bottle. Many towns have public fountains with the crispest, coldest mountain water you’ll ever sip.
  • Leave time for spontaneity. The best moments are the ones you didn’t plan—trust me, I’ve missed entire shore excursions and wouldn’t change a thing.

So go forth, fellow sailor—and don’t let the promise of a flag-toting guide keep you from wandering into wonderful.